3-Day Nakasendo Hiking Itinerary - Following the Footsteps of Samurai

What Is the Nakasendo Trail?

The Nakasendo, or “Central Mountain Route,” was one of Japan’s five major Edo Period (1603-1868) highways, linking Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto over 534 kilometers through the mountainous interior. It passed through today’s Saitama, Gunma, Nagano, Gifu, and Shiga Prefectures, with 69 post towns providing food, lodging, and rest. Many of these towns, particularly along the Kisoji Road in the Kiso Valley in Nagano and Gifu, are very well preserved and accessible today by foot, car, or public transport, with hiking routes connecting popular stops like Magome-juku, Tsumago-juku, Narai-juku, and Fukushima-juku.

For this article, we’ve designed a 3-day Nakasendo itinerary that balances manageable hikes with train travel to create the ideal mix of outdoor adventure, cultural experiences, and gourmet treats.

When Is the Best Time to Hike the Nakasendo Trail?

The Nakansendo post towns in this itinerary sit at an altitude of between 600 to 900 meters. This keeps the weather relatively cool, but with significant differences between the seasons. Some parts of the itinerary, like the Torii Pass, reach elevations of over 1,000 meters, which invites more extreme weather, particularly in winter. Below, we’ll review the weather conditions for each season and what you should bring to stay comfortable and safe.

・Spring (April to early June)

As with much of Japan, spring is considered one of the best times to hike the Nakasendo trail, with cherry blossoms and other flowers adding color from April. Being a mountainous region, spring can still be very cold, often dipping down to 5°C (41°F) in the mornings, so be sure to pack warm clothes that can be easily taken off and stored as temperatures rise during the day. You may also encounter rain, so bring wet weather gear.

・Summer (Mid-June to August)

Being deep in the mountains, the Nakasendo is an escape from the sweltering heat that engulfs Japan over the summer. Even during the hottest weeks, temperatures rarely climb above 30°C (86°F), making it an ideal time for hiking. However, evenings can get cool, so it’s a good idea to pack long pants and a light jacket if you plan to explore after dark. Keep in mind that Japan’s rainy season typically falls in June and July, bringing increased humidity and a higher chance of showers. Be prepared for wet conditions by packing extra clothing, towels, and reliable waterproof jackets and gear.

Tip: Visiting Japan in the rainy season? Be sure to read our rainy season guide beforehand.

・Autumn (September to November)

Autumn is another pleasant time to explore the Nakansendo. Autumn colors tend to appear from around late October, lasting until mid November. Temperatures start to drop from October, so be sure to pack warm clothes. September also tends to have high average rainfall, so prepare for wet weather.

・Winter (December to March)

Hiking the Nakasendo trail in winter means encountering freezing temperatures and snowfall, especially in the higher mountain sections, and is not recommended for beginners. Some lower areas, like Magome-juku, may have little or no snow, but upper parts can be snowy and icy. It’s important to check the local weather before going and prepare with thermal clothing, waterproof boots, and gear for slippery conditions (including crampons and snowshoes depending on the specific conditions). Also, some inns may be closed in winter, so research and book accommodations ahead. That being said, post towns like Magome-juku and Narai-juku remain accessible by train and bus, except in cases of severe weather-related delays, so you can still easily visit and sightsee without hiking.

Tip: Luggage Forwarding on the Nakasendo Trail

When hiking the Nakansendo, it’s best to carry a daypack with the essentials, and to forward your heavier luggage between accommodations.

Forwarding luggage between Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku is super easy, with same-day pick-ups and drop-offs available at the Magome Tourist Information Center, Tsumago Tourist Information Center, and other locations between late March through November. Simply drop off your luggage between 8:30 am and 11:30 am and pick it up from 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm. The cost is 1,000 yen per item.

For other stretches of the Nakasendo trail, you’ll have to do a bit more planning and make advanced reservations. NLTS (Nakasendo Luggage Transfer Service) specializes in same-day delivery across hotels in the Nakasendo, or you can opt for Kuroneko Yamato’s TA-Q-BIN Service, which is the favorite of travelers throughout all of Japan. These services are available in English, so you don’t have to worry about language barriers.

Day 1: Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku

This Nakasendo itinerary begins at Magome-juku, one of the Nakasendo trail’s most well-known post towns, located in Gifu Prefecture. It takes around half a day to reach Magome-juku from Tokyo, Kyoto, or Osaka, so we recommend traveling to the area the day before the hike and spending the night nearby. There are several lodgings in Magome-juku, or you can stay in nearby Nakatsugawa, a small city with more hotel choices.

・How to Get to Magome-juku

・From Tokyo

From Tokyo Station, take the Tokaido Shinkansen bullet train to Nagoya Station (approx. 1.5 hours), then transfer to the Limited Express Shinano on the JR Chuo Main Line and get off at Nakatsugawa Station (approx. 50 mins). From here, board the “Magome Line (M)” bus to Magome-juku (approx 25 mins). Be sure to confirm the bus timetable in advance.

・From Kyoto/Osaka

From Shin-Osaka Station or Kyoto Station, take the Tokaido Shinkansen bullet train to Nagoya Station (approx. 50 mins from Osaka; 35 mins from Kyoto). Then follow the same route above from Nagoya Station.

Stroll the Photogenic Townscape of Magome-juku

After arriving in Magome-juku, take some time to explore before beginning your hike. Magome-juku, the 43rd stop on the Nakasendo trail, is one of the most well-preserved post towns, and simply meandering through its cobblestone lanes, lined with charming wooden buildings and free of power lines or modern signage, grants a striking glimpse into Edo Period Japan.

Highlights in Magome-juku include its iconic wooden waterwheel and historical gems such as the Old Official Bulletin Board and the Shimizuya Museum, a late 18th-century residence filled with antiques tied to local heritage. For sightseeing tips, stop by the Magome-juku BASE Information and Visitor Center to pick up pamphlets. Once you’ve finished exploring, head to the Magome Jinbakami Observatory, where you can take in a sweeping view of the surrounding mountains before setting out on the trailhead nearby.

Toson Memorial Museum

If you’d like to spend more time in Magome-juku, we recommend visiting the Toson Memorial Museum. The museum offers a look into the life and legacy of Japanese author Toson Shimazaki (1872-1943), who was born in Magome-juku. While you’ve likely never heard of Toson Shimazaki, the painstaking reconstruction of his original home, which served as an inn for high-ranking officials, adds another layer of local history to your visit.

Lunch: Dochu Oyaki

For a quick bite before your Nakasendo hike, pop into Dochu Oyaki, in the heart of Magome-juku. This popular shop specializes in “oyaki,” a traditional flour-based bun stuffed with a variety of ingredients. The buns here are handmade and freshly steamed, with savory fillings like rapeseed greens, eggplant, walnuts, and several selections of meat, as well as sweet options like red bean paste. Grab a few extras to take with you as snacks for the trail.

Hiking From Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku

Once you’ve explored Magome-juku, it’s time to begin your journey on the Nakasendo trail. The hike from Magome-juku to the next post town, Tsumago-juku, is about 9 kilometers and takes roughly 3 hours at a relaxed pace. The route climbs over the Magome Pass, but the ascent isn’t too steep and should be manageable for most reasonably active hikers. In fact, Tsumago-juku sits at a lower altitude than Magome-juku, so once you go over the Magome Pass, it’s an easy descent into townーmuch better than going the other way.

The Nakasendo trailhead can be found just past the Magome Jinbakami Observatory, where you’ll set off on a beautiful stone-paved path that winds through dense forest. The route to Tsumago-juku is well signposted, but there are points where the trail intersects with main roads, so keep an eye out for signs directing you back onto the mountain path. Along the way, you’ll pass through tiny villages untouched by time, offering a profound sense of what life was like during the trail’s prime.

A great place to pause along the way is Ichikokutochi Tateba Chaya, a 200-year-old teahouse that continues to serve as a trusted rest stop for travelers. You can also take a break by the twin Odaki and Medaki Waterfalls, whose invigorating spray will reenergize you for the final stretch.

Arriving in Tsumago-juku

Following the twin waterfalls, your hike concludes at Tsumago-juku, the 42nd post town on the Nakasendo trail. Like Magome-juku, you’ll find a wonderfully preserved slice of traditional Japan. In fact, Tsumago-juku was the first place in Japan to be designated as a Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. The local community has committed to never selling, leasing, or demolishing any properties, ensuring its character remains protected.

Start your visit by picking up pamphlets at the Tsumago Tourist Information Center. From there, learn about the town’s history at the Tsumago-juku Honjin, a reconstruction of a grandiose inn that accommodated samurai lords. It was also the birthplace of Toson Shimazaki’s mother, further showcasing the authors' deep ties to the Nakasendo.

Another highlight in Tsumago-juku is the Local Postal History Museum, marked by a black antique and functioning postbox outfront (a good opportunity to send off any postcards). There’s also the Waki Honjin Okuya, an elegant estate constructed in 1877, along with the Nagiso Town History Museum, the Historic Bulletin Board, and more.

If you have additional time (and energy), you can also hike up to the nearby Tsumago Castle Ruins, whose trailhead can be found by continuing on the Nakansendo trail into the forest on the outskirts of town. From the trailhead, it’s a 300-meter climb to the top, where you’ll be treated to a sweeping lookout over Tsumago-juku and surroundings.

Recommended Accommodation in Tsumago-juku: Daikichi

Daikichi is a traditional Japanese inn tucked in a quieter section of the Nakasendo trail in Tsumago-juku. After a day of Nakasendo hiking, you can regain your energy with a soak in a private hinoki (cypress wood) bath, before resting up in a room with beautiful garden views. Meals focus on fresh, local ingredients like foraged mountain vegetables and river fish, highlighting the region’s flavors while healing tired bodies with ample nutrients.

Day 2: Tsumago-juku to Fukushima-juku

For Day 2, instead of hiking, we recommend riding the train to Fukushima-juku, the 37th post town on the Nakasendo trail. From Daikichi, call a taxi to Nagiso Station (10 min drive), or walk 5 minutes to the Tsumago bus stop and take the Hogami or Magome Line to Nagiso Station (about a 10-minute ride, be sure to check the bus schedule in advance). Alternatively, it’s a 45-minute walk from Daikichi to Nagiso Station.

After arriving at Nagiso Station, take the Shinano limited express or a local train on the JR Chuo Line to reach Kiso-Fukushima Station (around 25 or 45 minutes respectively).

Sightseeing in Fukushima-juku

Once you’re at Fukushima-juku, spend the rest of the day touring its cultural and historical treasures. Fukushima-juku sits roughly halfway between Tokyo and Kyoto and prospered as the home of the Fukushima Checkpoint and trailhead leading to Mount Ontake, a sacred pilgrimage site. While it has grown into a modern township, parts of its traditional streetscape remain well preserved, making it a worthwhile addition. Below are some of the top spots to explore in Fukushima-juku.

Fukushima Sekisho Museum

During the Edo Period, Fukushima-juku was best known as the site of the Fukushima Checkpoint (Fukushima Sekisho). These checkpoints were strategically placed throughout Japan to manage and search travelers, helping to protect the capital from insurrections and other disturbances. The Fukushima Checkpoint remained under the control of the local Yamamura Clan all the way up to the Meiji Restoration (1868).

Unfortunately, the original Fukushima Checkpoint was dismantled soon after the Meiji Restoration. However, the site was recognized for its historical importance in 1979, and its wooden fences and gates were restored. A replica of the original structure was also built and opened as the Fukushima Sekisho Museum, showcasing the stately and imposing architecture that projected the authority of the shogun into this rural nook of Japan. Inside, visitors can view artifacts from the era, including documents, weapons, and “onnategata” (women’s passes used to control travel).

Tip: When walking through Fukushima-juku, be sure to follow the Old Nakasendo trail (Google Maps), where you’ll find its preserved streetscape.

Kozenji Temple

Kozenji is a Buddhist temple known for its stunning gardens, including a rock garden said to be the largest in Japan. Deeply connected to the region, it serves as the family temple of the former ruling Kiso and Yamamura clans and traces its history back to the 15th century.

In addition to the famed rock garden, there are three other gardens on the grounds, each flaunting a distinct aesthetic. Among the highlights is a weeping cherry blossom tree, the second generation of one originally planted by Kiso Yoshinaka, a renowned samurai lord featured in the epic poem The Tale of the Heike. These meticulously manicured slices of nature offer a striking contrast to the surrounding wilderness, granting a blissful moment of Zen amid your busy sightseeing.

Lunch: Kurumaya

For lunch at Fukushima-juku, we recommend Kurumaya, a soba restaurant with strong local ties. It originally operated as a rice and flour mill on the grounds of the local ruler during the Edo Period, before transitioning into a soba restaurant in the Meiji Period (1868-1912). Using its own buckwheat, Kurumaya serves handmade soba that has earned a reputation as one of the Nakasendo's go-to meals. The charming building dates back to 1910, decorated with historical documents, a Meiji-era waterwheel gear, and beautiful antique dolls.

The menu boasts a variety of soba dishes, including “zaru” soba (cold noodles served on a bamboo tray without broth) and warm soba served in a rich, hearty soup. Made from freshly milled buckwheat, the noodles have a firm, chewy texture that pairs perfectly with the signature “tsuyu” dipping sauce. To round out your meal, you can also choose from a selection of flavorful sides like stews, soups, and tempura.

Kiso-Fukushima Castle Site

If you’re hankering to get back on the hiking trails, give your legs a workout on the roughly 3-kilometer-long Kiso-Fukushima Castle Site loop. The trailhead is located by Daihikannon Temple, across the river from the Kiso Fukushima Free Public Footbath and Gyonin Bridge. This hiking path leads you into the lush, forested foothills surrounding the town, passing several natural landmarks along the way, including the tranquil Gongen-taki Waterfall.

While none of the original castle buildings remain today, observant hikers can spot features like earthen embankments, dry moats, and other remnants at the summit. The castle had only a brief history, built in the 1530s by Sengoku Period general Kiso Yoshiyasu but abandoned in 1582 after his forces were defeated by Tokugawa Ieyasu. Though the ruins themselves aren’t particularly grand, the peaceful nature walk and the fantastic panoramic views of the townscape below more than make the hike worthwhile.

Yamamura Daikan Yashiki Museum

The Kiso-Fukushima Castle Site loop finishes at the Yamamura Daikan Yashiki Museum, the restored estate of the ruling Yamamura Clan. Its magnificent grounds are filled with cultural and historical treasures, including part of the “shimoyashiki” villa and garden, which have remained intact since their original construction. If you’re interested in learning more about local history, be sure to set aside time for a visit. Alternatively, you can begin your hike from here and complete the hiking loop in reverse.

Recommended Accommodation in Kiso-Fukushima: Onyado Tsutaya

For your second night on the Nakasendo trail, treat yourself to a luxurious stay at Tsutaya, a historic Japanese inn that has been welcoming travelers since the mid-Edo Period.

Guestrooms present a clean yet cozy Japanese aesthetic, offering both Western-style beds and traditional futon options. Its open-air onsen is filled with naturally carbonated hot spring water, while the indoor bath is infused with kihada, a plant native to Mt. Ontake, traditionally used for medicinal properties. For those who value privacy, some rooms come equipped with their own open-air onsen, allowing you to soak away hiking fatigue in peace.

Dinner at Tsutaya is a beautifully crafted kaiseki course meal that showcases the natural bounties of Kiso. An impressive variety of dishes is served, each imbued with colorful, dynamic artistry that highlights the season’s freshest ingredients.

Day 3: Yabuhara-juku to Narai-juku

The final hike on this Nakasendo itinerary covers the Torii Pass, a 6-kilometer trek from Yabuhara-juku to Narai-juku, another famous post town. The trail conveniently begins at Yabuhara Station, which is directly accessible from Kiso-Fukushima Station on the Chuo Main Line (approx. 15 mins).

Since the hike takes approximately three hours, we recommend catching a train before 9:00 am to arrive in Narai-juku in time for lunch. If you prefer a later start, there are a few lunch spots open in Yabuhara-juku, or pick up a bento or sandwich at the convenience store near Kiso-Fukushima Station to eat on the hike.

Hiking from Yabuhara-juku to Narai-juku

After getting off the train at Yabuhara Station, you’ll immediately be near the Nakasendo trail, which runs parallel to the tracks. Yabuhara-juku is also a post town, and although it hasn’t been as well preserved, its wooden train station and several heritage buildings dotting the urban streetscape serve as reminders of its legacy.

Yabuhara Shrine

If you feel like a quick detour, visit Yabuhara Shrine, tucked just off the Nakasendo. Dating back to 680 AD, the shrine showcases a unique fusion of Shinto and Buddhist architecture, set amongst bristling forest. After Yabuhara Shrine, we suggest starting your hike to allow more time in Narai-juku. The opening section of the trail is on urban roads, but you’ll soon enter the mountain and reconnect with the unpaved hiking trail.

The Torii Pass

The trail from Yabuhara-juku climbs up to the Torii Pass, one of the highest peaks of the Nakasendo, with around 230 meters of moderately steep elevation gain to an altitude of 1,197 meters. Along the way, you’ll pass stunning sights such as a forest of horse chestnut trees that glow golden in autumn, and clearings in the treeline that grant sweeping views of the region. A major highlight is Ontake Shrine, located about a third of the way along the route. Dedicated to Mt. Ontake, the shrine has long served as a haven for travelers to pray and rest before continuing their journey. On clear days, you can even spot its namesake mountain in the distance.

After reaching the Torii Pass, the path gradually descends into Narai-juku. Emerging from the forest, asphalt roads guide you toward the town center. Along the way, be sure to stop by the dazzling Shizume-jinja Shrine and take a look at the Old Narai Notice Board.

Lunch: Echigoya

If you’ve arrived in time for lunch at Narai-juku, you’ll find plenty of fantastic restaurants to choose from. We recommend Echigoya, a traditional eatery in the heart of town.

Echigoya specializes in soba, the go-to dish along the Nakasendo, as well as “goheimochi,” a type of rice cake coated with soy sauce or miso and roasted, common in Kiso and other mountainous regions of central Japan. While most goheimochi are oval-shaped, those at Echigoya and many other restaurants in Narai-juku are pressed into dainty circles, following local custom. The restaurant is housed in a 200-year-old building originally occupied by a lacquerware maker, a traditional craft of the Kiso region. Filled with antiques and grand wooden furniture, stepping inside fills you with a sense of warmth, like visiting a grandparents’ house.

If you don’t make it for lunch, Narai-juku is packed with both traditional and trendy cafes serving a variety of pick-me-ups like coffee, desserts, ice cream, and more. Favorites include Izumiya Cafe, housed in a 180-year-old homestead, offering a mouthwatering selection of decadent cakes and parfaits; and Cafe Miyama, located just off the main street with spacious outdoor seating, specializing in traditional desserts and light meals such as their signature “kibimochi” and “100-year-old rice curry.”

Sightseeing in Narai

After lunch, spend the afternoon exploring Narai-juku, the 34th post town on the Nakasendo trail. Narai-juku was a key rest stop for travelers crossing the strenuous Torii Pass, making it one of the busiest post towns in the Kiso region. Like Tsumago-juku, Narai-juku is protected as one of Japan’s Preservation Districts for Groups of Traditional Buildings.

The town’s prosperity earned it the nickname “Narai Senken,” meaning “Narai of a Thousand Inns,” and its incredibly well-preserved streetscape is arguably the most authentic Edo Period snapshot anywhere in Japan. Naturally, there’s plenty to see and do, making it well worth spending the rest of your day here, or even staying overnight.

Traditional Buildings and Handicrafts

While exploring Narai-juku, pop into the Nakamura Residence, a merchant house built in 1843 that specialized in making and selling lacquered combs, which was a common side business for locals. The Nakamura Residence is open to the public, offering a prime example of the lifestyle from the era.

If you’re keen to check out more local handicrafts, head to Urushi Art Hanaikada. Here, you’ll find a fantastic selection of traditional combs on sale, including the famous “orokugushi,” known for its incredibly fine wooden bristles made using unique local techniques. There are plenty of other lacquerware crafts to discover as well, so be sure to leave space in your luggage for souvenirs.

Narai-juku Sake

If you’re a fan of sake, be sure to visit the Sasaya Liquor Store, which has been procuring and selling premium brews for around 100 years. You’ll find the best brands from across Nagano Prefecture, including local sake from the Kiso and Shiojiri areas. And if you’re hankering for a taste, make a beeline for Sagyobar by Suginomori Brewery, who serve their own sake in a trendy restyled warehouse.

Other Narai-juku Highlights

As you stroll through Narai-juku, keep an eye out for the “mizuba” public water fountains. Six of these charming wooden structures stand throughout the town, once providing water to travelers who had just completed or were about to embark on the Torii Pass. Even today, water continues to flow from these hut-like structures, used by locals for their daily routes.

If you have time, wander over to the Kiso-no-Ohashi Bridge, a photogenic arch crafted entirely from Japanese cypress without any support pillars. The bridge is illuminated at night, so be sure to visit after dark if you’re staying in Narai-juku. Also worth checking out are the 200 Jizo Statues on the grounds of Hachimangu Shrine, accessible via an old walking trail lined with towering cedar trees.

Recommended Accommodation in Narai-juku: BYAKU Narai

Since you’ll be exhausted from your days hiking the Nakansendo, we recommend bedding down for your final night at BYAKU Narai. This is one of the most acclaimed accommodations on the Nakansendo, blending the warm tones of a historic ryokan with 5-star service and contemporary comforts. BYAKU Narai consists of 16 spacious rooms spread across four renovated buildings, all with distinctive architecture and histories. It also has its own restaurant, bathhouse, and art gallery, ensuring you’re well-fed and entertained!

Where to Go After the Nakasendo Trail?

Following in the footsteps of Japanese lords, nobility, and samurai, you’ve now completed the most popular section of the Nakasendo trail—congratulations! From Narai Station, you have plenty of ways to continue your journey. Our 3-Day Classic Nagano Itinerary covers the best of Nagano Prefecture by train, including nearby must-visit destinations like Matsumoto and the Jigokudani Monkey Park. Or you can head back to Nagoya Station and embark on our 3-Day Gifu Itinerary, where you’ll uncover more traditional Japanese villages like the renowned Shirakawa-go.

Top image: PIXTA