3-Day Fukushima Itinerary: Retro Streets, Mountain Villages, and Ramen Adventures in Aizu

What Sort of Place Is Fukushima?

Fukushima is a prefecture in Japan located at the bottom of the Tohoku region, roughly 250 kilometers north of Tokyo. As the third largest prefecture in Japan, it stretches across the mountains of the central Aizu region to the Hamadori coastline on the Pacific Ocean. Between them lies the central Nakadori, where urban centers Fukushima City and Koriyama are connected to Tokyo on the Tohoku Shinkansen.

All the regions of Fukushima have their own allure, from the coast that has made remarkable progress since the 2011 Tohoku earthquake to the rugged inland mountains and basins. However, many of Fukushima’s most compelling highlights can be found in the western Aizu region. For this reason, our 3-day Fukushima itinerary focuses on exploring Aizu, with suggestions at the end for those who wish to continue onward and discover more things to do in Fukushima.

Is Fukushima Safe to Visit?

Yes, it’s perfectly safe to visit Fukushima Prefecture, especially the Aizu region featured in this article, which is far away from the Fukushima nuclear accident. However, access to certain areas around the Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant on the coast remain restricted or off-limits. These zones are concentrated near the coastal towns of Okuma, Futaba, and Namie, so if you plan to visit this part of Fukushima, please do your research beforehand and follow local guidance.

How to Get to Fukushima From Tokyo

Fukushima Prefecture is well connected to Tokyo on the Tohoku Shinkansen. From Tokyo Station, it takes 1 hour and 20 minutes to reach Koriyama Station, and about 1.5 hours to reach Fukushima City.

For this Fukushima itinerary, we’ll have you get off at Koriyama Station and transfer to the rapid service on the Ban'etsu West Line to Aizu-Wakamatsu Station. The ride to Aizu-Wakamatsu Station takes a little over an hour, bringing the total travel time to roughly 3 hours. For this reason, we recommend departing Tokyo in the early morning or even the prior afternoon.

For those renting a car in Tokyo, the drive to Aizu-Wakamatsu takes around 4 hours.

Fukushima Itinerary Day 1: Aizu-Wakamatsu

After arriving at Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, the first day of our Fukushima itinerary focuses on exploring the many historical sites scattered across Aizu-Wakamatsu.

To get around, use the convenient Haikara-san and Akabe loop buses, ideal for sightseeing. You can find the timetable and other details on the official website. One-day passes are available, offering both unlimited rides and discounts at popular attractions.

AM: Ascend the Spiral Staircase of Sazaedo Temple

Access: From Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, take the Town Bus Akabe to Iimoriyama Shita (approx. 5 mins), and then walk 5 minutes to Sazaedo Temple.

Sazaedo is a Buddhist temple founded in 1796 on the side of Mt. Iimori, a modest but significant mountain that forms the eastern border of Aizu-Wakamatsu. What sets Sazaedo apart from other Japanese temples is its landmark 16.5-meter-tall hexagonal wooden tower. You’ll climb to the top via a spiraling staircase, following a dark, solemn corridor plastered with “senjafuda” votive slips, weaving together a dreamlike scene. But most fascinating of all is the ingenious layout of the twin staircases, which, despite the tight space, are interlaced so that those ascending and descending never cross paths.

After finishing your climb up Sazaedo, we recommend taking some time to wander the verdant grounds of Itsukushima Shrine next door. Here you’ll find the refreshing sight of spring water flowing out of a small cave, which was dug in the early 1600s to bring water for irrigation from nearby Lake Inawashiro, the fourth largest lake in Japan. It was also used as a tunnel by the Byakkotai (see below) to reach Mt. Iimori, marking it as another significant site in the turbulent history of Aizu-Wakamatsu.

AM: Be Moved by the Tragedy of Aizu-Wakamatsu at the Byakkotai Memorial Park

Access: Approx. 5-minute walk from Sazaedo Temple.

Before you leave Mt. Iimori, we recommend continuing along the slopes to find the gravesite of the Byakkotai, one of the most poignant remains of Aizu-Wakamatsu’s profound samurai culture.

The story behind this gravesite takes place during the Boshin War (1868-1869), when Aizu-Wakamatsu was at the heart of a fierce resistance against the forces who had overthrown the shogun and restored the emperor, ushering in the Meiji Period (1868-1912). To strengthen their defences, the Aizu Clan reformed their military to include a unit of 16 to 17-year-old boys called the Byakkotai, or White Tiger Force.

Once the enemy had breached Aizu’s defences, the brave Byakkotai were called in at their own request. Separated during fighting, a group of about 20 boy soldiers climbed Mt. Iimori and, to their distress, witnessed their beloved Tsuruga Castle engulfed in smoke below, signalling defeat. The boys committed suicide in order to preserve their dignity as samurai, and their story remains a haunting reminder of loyalty and sacrifice.

After visiting the Byakkotai gravesite, a short wander brings you to a statue of one of the boys gazing toward Tsuruga Castle, illustrating their final moment of despair. There is also another Byakkotai statue outside Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, worth a look before hopping on the bus or train.

Lunch: Shibukawa Donya

Access: Walk back to the Iimoriyama Shita bus stop, and take the Town Bus Akabe to the Amidaji Higashi bus stop (approx. 30 mins). The restaurant is right near the bus stop.

For lunch, head to Aizu-Wakamatsu’s retro Nanokamachi-dori Street to dine at Shibukawa Donya. Housed in a spacious traditional estate, the restaurant was originally founded in 1882 as a seafood wholesaler, using its expertise to serve fresh, high-quality local fare.

For more adventurous foodies, we recommend trying the traditional Aizu preserved dishes like kelp-wrapped herring and simmered dried cod, which were derived to compensate for the region’s limited access to fresh fish. Alternatively, opt for the Aizu beef steak, a classic palate-pleaser.

PM: Stroll the Retro Streets of Nanokamachi

Surrounding Shibukawa Donya is the quirky neighborhood of Nanokamachi. A living museum of architecture, Nanokamachi’s streets are a dynamic jumble of humble Edo Period (1603-1868) wooden townhouses, flamboyant Western-inspired buildings of the Meiji and Taisho eras, and brutalist, hyper-practical Showa era (1926-1989) structures.

The area has long been central to history, serving as a key route connecting Aizu-Wakamatsu with nearby regions like Nikko, Niigata, and Yamagata. Although its prosperity declined in the latter half of the 20th century, it has since been revived through tourism to become one of Aizu-Wakamatsu’s most popular destinations.

To fully soak in the vibe, we advise spending at least an hour strolling through Nanokamachi. Inside the historic buildings, a multitude of trendy boutiques sell all kinds of treasures, including traditional local handicrafts like painted candles, lacquerware, clothing and fabrics made from “momen” cotton, papier-mâché toys, and stunning pottery crafted by Aizu artists.

One of our go-to shops in Nanokamachi is the Aizu Brand Hall, where Aizu’s finest crafts are conveniently gathered under one roof. Or if you’re keen for a more hands-on experience, Suzuzen runs Aizu lacquerware workshops, including a maki-e painting class that we joined.

Nanokamachi is also packed with quirky little cafes serving tasty pick-me-ups. We recommend saving room a helping of “dengaku,” made from ingredients like tofu, konnyaku, and mochi coated in miso and char-roasted on skewers. If you’re a sake enthusiast like us, be sure to pop into local breweries, like the over-200-year-old Tsurunoe Shuzo on the main street, which has store-front tastings, and the acclaimed Suehiro Sake Brewery, housed in a stunning old estate complete with tours, tastings, and its own cafe.

If you prefer to linger longer in Nanokamachi, we recommend extending your journey to the Showa Nostalgia Museum, which recreates the colorful look of 20th-century Japan. There’s also the Hideyo Noguchi Seishunkan, a former clinic built in 1884 where bacteriologist Hideyo Noguchi interned, who is world-famous for his research on syphilis. The first floor houses a charming old-style cafe, while the second is a museum dedicated to Noguchi’s life.

And that’s just the start of the gems tucked around Nanokamachi, so take time to explore the streets, step into shops and museums, and uncover something unique for yourself!

PM: Witness Aizu’s Proud Legacy at Tsuruga Castle

Access: Take the Town Bus Haikara-san from one of the bus stops in Nanokamachi, such as Nanokamachi Chuo, Nanokamachi Ekimae, Amidaji Higashi, or Noguchi Hideyo Seishunkan-mae. Get off at the Tsurugajo Iriguchi bus stop (approx. 15 to 25 minutes, depending on which bus stop you use), and then walk approx. 10 minutes to the center of Tsuruga Castle.

Tsuruga Castle is the most famous landmark of Aizu-Wakamatsu. Its history spans over 600 years, starting as a simple fortified residence and developing into a fully-fledged castle. While sustaining damage, it survived the chaos of the Boshin War, but was sadly dismantled during the Meiji Era, when many of Japan’s precious castles were sold off or destroyed. Thankfully, Tsuruga Castle’s impressive keep was restored in the 1960s, allowing locals and visitors to again marvel at its striking architecture. In 2011, the roof was retiled with the original red tiles, unseen elsewhere in Japan, completing the faithful recreation of its pre-war appearance.

There’s plenty to see on the expansive grounds of Tsuruga Castle. We suggest beginning with a leisurely walk through the maze of imposing moats and stone walls. Pause on the wide-open grassy lawn, once the site of the castle’s administration buildings, and stroll through the garden of roughly 1,000 cherry blossom trees that bloom around mid-April, earning the castle recognition as one of Japan’s Top 100 Cherry Blossom Viewing Spots. Scattered throughout are photogenic bright red bridges, the ruins of turrets, and other intriguing relics to reward keen eyes.

Once you’ve walked the grounds, you can ascend the castle keep, which contains a museum detailing the castle’s history, along with a fantastic lookout at the top. In our opinion, however, the true appeal of Tsuruga Castle is the outdoor grounds, so don’t rush to go inside if you don’t have time.

Saving the best for last, treat yourself to a bowl of matcha at the Rinkaku teahouse, tucked in the southeast corner of the grounds. This historic teahouse is said to date back to the late 1500s, when Gamo Ujisato, lord of Aizu, hid the son of Sen no Rikyu, Japan’s most famous tea master, in Aizu to preserve the way of tea after Rikyu was ordered to be executed.

Centuries later, Rinkaku was relocated to protect it from destruction after Aizu fell in the Boshin War, and it was finally returned to Tsuruga Castle in 1990, allowing us and future generations to appreciate its legacy. The rustic, understated design, moss-covered garden, and the lovingly prepared matcha embody all the charm of Japanese tea culture. Note that the last tea order at Rinkaku is 4:00 pm, so it’s best to visit first if you arrive later in the day.

If you’ve spent too long at Nanokamachi or another Fukushima sightseeing spot, don’t worry. The outdoor grounds of Tsuruga Castle are open 24 hours, so you can freely visit in the evening or even after dark. Even better, the keep is illuminated at certain times in seasonal colors, with highlights like the cherry blossom light up in April to early May, and the autumn foliage light up from mid-October to mid-November.

Recommended Accommodation: Washington Hotel

For our Fukushima itinerary, we recommend staying near Aizu-Wakamatsu Station for convenient access to local trains and buses. The station area is quiet and affordable, with plenty of restaurants to choose from for dinner.

Fukushima Itinerary Day 2: Ouchi-juku

Following a restful night, day two takes you deep into Fukushima’s mountains to reach the tiny settlement of Ouchi-juku. It’s accessible by public transport, with the trip taking about an hour by train and bus, but services are limited, so it’s essential to check the latest timetables before setting out (Japanese only, please use a translation tool).

For those able to drive in Japan, we suggest renting a car. Several rental companies operate within walking distance of Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, so securing a vehicle is easy. For added peace of mind, use the link below to reserve your rental car in advance.

AM: Slip into the Edo Period in Ouchi-juku

Access:
・Car: Approx. 50-minute drive from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station.
・Public Transport: From Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, take the Aizu Railway Aizu Line to Yunokami Onsen (approx. 40 mins). After leaving the station, follow the sign to the Saruyu-go bus stop, just a minute’s walk from the station. Get on the bus and purchase a bus pass from the staff (cash only, also valid for the return trip). The bus takes approximately 20 minutes to reach the Ouchi-juku Entrance, from which Ouchi-juku is just a short walk away.

For us and many others, Ouchi-juku ranks alongside Shirakawa-go and Narai-juku as one of Japan’s most well-preserved historical villages. Its main street is lined with neat rows of traditional wooden thatched-roof cottages, with almost no concrete or powerlines to ruin its pristine image. The village prospered during the Edo Period as a rest stop on a route connecting Aizu-Wakamatsu with Nikko. In 1981 it was designated as one of Japan’s Important Preservation Districts for Groups of Traditional Buildings, guaranteeing its protection for the future.

Being compact, Ouchi-juku is easy to explore on foot in a single day. We recommend first soaking in the vibe with a simple stroll down the main street, where you'll no doubt be pausing every few meters for another photograph. While walking, browse the local handicrafts and souvenirs laid out on the storefronts, including Aizu classics like akabeko cows and the elegant Aizu Hongo-yaki pottery. We also loved the handmade hanging fabrics shaped like flowers, vegetables, and other motifs at Honke Kanouya, which added a vivid splash of color against the subdued scenery.

For history-buffs, save time in your schedule for the Ouchi-juku Town Museum. The museum sits inside the reconstructed “honjin,” a grand inn that once hosted traveling lords and other high-ranking officials. Inside is a collection of antique tools, utensils, farming equipment, and other everyday items that paint a picture of rural life during the Edo Period.

Lunch: Negi Soba

Many of the cottages in Ouchi-juku contain restaurants serving regional specialities, including “negi soba,” a true one of a kind. This soba noodle dish comes with a full stick of green onion that doubles as a utensil, letting you lift the noodles while nibbling on the onion for a shift in flavor. Raw green onion can be very strong, so there is no need to finish it; a few bites are enough for the experience. Thankfully, the soba itself is served in a delicious broth of soy sauce, spicy daikon radish, and bonito flakes, giving it a rich and satisfying taste.

There are more than 10 restaurants across Ouchi-juku serving negi soba, so finding a bowl is never an issue. If you’re still hungry, try “shingoro,” miso-coated rice balls skewered and roasted over the sunken hearths found in many cottages. For dessert, we loved “tochi mochi,” a tasty rice cake made from horse chestnut.

PM: Get Sweeping Panoramas from the Ouchi-juku View Point

Access: Brief walk from the center of Ouchi-juku.

After exploring the village, climb the hill at the end of the street to take in Ouchi-juku from above. This is where the most iconic photos of Ouchi-juku are shot, with the thatched roofs unfolding below rolling hills and towering mountains in the distance. A few small shrines and temples line the short trail, heightening the sense of wandering the past.

PM: Explore the Tranquil Forest of Takakura Shrine

Access: Approx. 10-minute walk from the Ouchi-juku View Point.

If you have time before the return bus, leave the bustling center of Ouchi-juku and stretch your legs on a walk to the wooded Takakura Shrine on the village outskirts, our favorite quiet escape in Ouchi-juku. The first torii gate stands in the middle of Ouchi-juku, making it easy to spot the farm road that leads to the shrine.

Takakura Shrine is centered around a beautiful wooden hall that blends seamlessly with its forest setting. Its name also carries a surprisingly rich backstory, tied to Prince Mochihito, known as the Takakura Prince, who, according to local legend, fled to this area while escaping the Taira clan during the Genpei War (1180-1185), one of Japan’s most famous conflicts and one he is said to have helped ignite. Apart from the shrine itself, we found the most striking feature to be the gigantic, multi-trunked cedar, estimated to be around 800 years old, rising magnificently above the hall below.

Fukushima Itinerary Day 3: Kitakata

The final day on our Fukushima itinerary takes you north of Aizu-Wakamatsu to Kitakata, one of Japan’s Three Great Ramen Cities, together with Sapporo and Hakata. With direct train access from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, it’s a logical addition to any Aizu-Wakamatsu travel plan.

AM: Start With a Caffeine Kick at Renga Coffee

Access: From Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, take the JR Ban'etsu West Line to Kitakata Station (approx. 17-22 mins, depending on service). Renga Coffee is right in front of Kitakata Station.

Fuel up for your day in Kitakata with a cup of joe at Renga Coffee. Set directly in front of Kitakata Station, its striking brick facade, originally a Meiji-era rice storehouse, presents an early glimpse of the city’s wealth of fabulous architecture. The ornate interior is equally inviting, featuring tables with real coffee beans beneath the glass tops.

As big coffee hounds, we were thrilled by the wide range of global styles on the menu, including slow-drip Dutch coffee, mocha, and cappuccinos, making it easy to find a brew that fit our taste. If you’re not a coffee drinker, there is also an excellent selection of teas, juices, and other beverages, along with light meals like sandwiches and toast that work for breakfast. Best of all, the cafe opens at 7:00 am, a welcome rarity in Japan where most cafes start much later in the morning.

AM: Tour the Old Warehouses of Kitakata

Access: Approx. 15 to 25-minute walk from Kitakata Station.

While most famous for ramen, Kitakata is also the home of a remarkable collection of historic buildings, most notably the warehouses constructed during the wave of modernization and fireproofing that occurred from the Meiji Period up to the war. Kitakata’s antique warehouses number around 4,000, and each boasts its own character, blending local construction techniques, regional materials, and aesthetics drawn from both Japanese and Western design. We found it most rewarding to let these buildings reveal themselves as we strolled through town, rather than hunting them all down at once.

・Wakaki Shoten

Begin your day exploring with a walk along Fureai-dori Street, where many of Kitakata’s signature warehouses are concentrated. Start at the corner by Wakaki Shoten, a grungy but charming structure constructed in 1931 as the storefront for an 18th-century soy sauce and miso brewery. The real gem here is tucked behind the shop: a striking brick warehouse built in 1904, which is in our opinion the best example of Kitakata’s historic architecture.

Glazed for protection against Fukushima’s harsh winters and individually fired in wood-fueled kilns, the warehouse bricks boast a distinctive sheen and dark earthy color, both hallmarks of Kitakata’s unique style. Its exterior carries an ornate Western industrial look, while inside is a fully Japanese space of tatami floors and polished striped persimmon and zelkova wood. For us, this warehouse perfectly captures how Kitakata locals blended two architectural worlds into a single, seamless whole.

・Ramen Shrine

While making your way up Fureai-dori Street, you’ll come across the Ramen Shrine, housed inside a renovated Edo Period warehouse. Photograph its clever chopstick-shaped torii gate and offer your thanks for the gift of ramen, then step inside to see a small museum that explains the dish’s origins and signature flavor. For a treat, try the ramen-inspired ice cream, made with noodle-like strands of soft-serve and topped with “narutomaki” fish cake. Beyond its photo worthiness, the sweetness of the ice cream, the salty kick of soy sauce, and the savory ramen toppings come together in a surprisingly delicious combination.

A few other attractions sit nearby, including the Yamatogawa Sake Brewery Museum and the beautiful Kyu-Kaike Residence, though the latter is currently closed for renovations as of 2026. While wandering, be sure to duck down a few laneways off Fureai-dori Street, where we came across a number of architectural gems hidden from the main road.

・Otazuki Preservation District

Next, head toward the Otazuki Preservation District, a 10-minute walk from Fureai-dori Street. Again, enjoy a simple stroll through the cluster of historical buildings and take in the old-world vibe. The standout here is the Ohara Shuzo sake brewery, which has been on this site for nearly 300 years and welcomes visitors with a shop and tastings. If you need another pick-me-up, Kunugiyama Coffee is close by, set inside a stylish blackened folk home.

Lunch: Bannai Shokudo

Access: Approx. 15-minute walk from Ohara Shuzo.

Now that you’ve explored Kitakata’s history, it’s time to enjoy what the city is best known for: ramen! Along with dozens of specialty ramen restaurants, many local eateries have ramen on the menu, bringing the total to more than 120 joints across town.

Classic Kitakata ramen is distinguished by thick, wavy noodles with a chewy bite, served in a light, clear broth made from pork, chicken, or dried sardines and seasoned with soy sauce. A generous serving of “chashu” (braised pork belly) completes the bowl, making it popular with meat eaters.

Conveniently tucked between Kitakata’s sightseeing districts, Bannai Shokudo has been serving ramen here since 1958, making it one of the city’s most esteemed restaurants. Here you can tuck into Kitakata ramen in a spacious dining hall with a casual, friendly atmosphere. You can’t go wrong with the classic Kitakata ramen, known here as “shina soba,” the original term once used for ramen in Kitakata. Those craving extra meat can also opt for the signature “niku-soba” ramen, which has the entire surface of the bowl blanketed in juicy chashu.

PM: Get a Final Fix of History at Kitakata Kura no Sato

Access: Approx. 20-minute walk from Bannai Shokudo or Kitakata Station.

For one last dose of local history before leaving Kitakata, make a detour to Kitakata Kura no Sato (Kitakata Storehouse Village). Spread across a 4,500 m² plot, this open-air museum brings together a collection of historical buildings relocated and restored on site. You’ll find a remarkable assortment of old shops, grain storehouses, sake and miso breweries, and even thatched-roof farmhouses all clustered together, letting you lose yourself in Kitakata’s rich past.

For those short on time, this is a convenient way to experience Kitakata’s architectural legacy in one compact area.

Where to Go After Aizu and Fukushima

After your 3-day trip to Aizu, there are many places to continue onward. You can explore more of central Fukushima, basing yourself in Fukushima City or Koriyama to embark on scenic drives such as on the Bandai-Azuma Skyline or hikes up Mount Adatara and other peaks. To learn about the earthquake and tsunami in Fukushima, we recommend crossing over to the coastline, where you’ll find informative facilities like The Great East Japan Earthquake and Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum and the Ukedo Elementary School Earthquake Ruins. For a fun ending to your Fukushima trip, finish up in Iwaki City, where you can both have a blast and relax at Spa Resort Hawaiians and the Fukushima Aquamarine Aquarium.

Once you’ve had your fill of Fukushima, continue onwards to neighboring prefectures. Niigata Prefecture, easily reachable from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, is a mecca for sake production and home to the World Heritage sites on Sado Island. You can also hop back on the Tohoku Shinkansen to Yamagata, known for Ghibli-esque hot springs; Hiraizumi (via Ichinoseki), Japan’s historical “capital of the north”; Akita, famous for the preserved samurai streets of Kakunodate; Aomori for seafood, fresh-picked apples, and castles; or even all the way up to Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island known for its ski resorts and adventure travel.

Top image: PIXTA