Mikuni Minato 2-Day Itinerary: Escape the Crowds For Traditional Arts in an Old-Time Townscape

*This article was sponsored by Actibase Fukui.

What Kind of Place Is Mikuni Minato?

Mikuni Minato is a historic harbor town on the coast of Fukui Prefecture in central Japan. During the Edo Period, it thrived as a key port on the Kitamaebune shipping route on the Sea of Japan, leading to the construction of grand townhouses and warehouses for wealthy merchants. While its prosperity faded with the rise of railways, many of its well-preserved buildings still capture the town’s former splendor. Mikuni Minato is also a convenient location for sightseeing, with numerous attractions like the Tojinbo cliffs and Maruoka Castle nearby, and it continues to serve as one of Fukui’s primary seafood ports, popular for rare and exquisite crab, shrimp, and more.

How to Get to Mikuni Minato

In 2024, the Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train was extended from Tokyo to Fukui, which significantly reduced travel time to Mikuni Minato. From Tokyo Station, the bullet train will take you directly to Awaraonsen Station (approx. 3 hrs 20 mins), from which Mikuni Minato can be reached in less than 20 minutes via taxi or rental car. Those staying at Auberge Homachi, one of Mikuni Minato’s more unique accommodation facilities, can also book a courtesy car pick-up from Awaraonsen Station.

Alternatively, if you prefer to ride the train all the way, take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Fukui Station (approx. 3 hours), and then transfer to the Mikuni Awara Line on the Echizen Railway. This will bring you straight to Mikuni Station in the center of town in around 50 minutes.

Day 1: Exploring Mikuni Minato’s Port Town Heritage on Foot

For our trip to Mikuni Minato, we picked up a rental car from Awaraonsen Station and drove. While the car would later prove invaluable for exploring the surrounding attractions, we found Mikuni Minato to be wonderfully walkable on the first day, making it just as accessible for those traveling by public transport.

Strolling the Historic Kitamae-dori Street

Access:
・Public Transport: Approx. 10-minute walk from Mikuni Station.
・Car: Approx. 20-minute drive from Awaraonsen Station.

Once a wealthy shipping community, the history-laden streets of Mikuni Minato brim with vintage allure. Devoid of tourists, it was like the entire town had been reserved just for us, worlds apart from Japan’s more well-trekked destinations.

Walking from the parking lot at Mikuni Station, we soon found Mikuni Minato’s brightest gems clustered around the central Kitamae-dori Street. Here, a mish-mash of wooden “machiya” townhouses full of character flaunted the local heritage. While each bears its own bold design, they all share a common architectural feature called “kagura-date” unique to the region, featuring wide-open facades facing the street and long interiors that stretch down to the waterfront, cleverly designed to let the former occupants handle both shipping and selling without leaving the property.

・The Old Kishina House

Many of Mikuni Minato’s townhouses are open to the public, such as the Old Kishina House, the former residence of a merchant family during the late Edo Period. In typical kagura-date style, its modest exterior concealed a long maze of rooms, making it feel much wider inside. The splendid decor reflected the wealth that the family amassed from trade on the Kitamaebune shipping route, while the impeccably preserved interiors and antique furnishings made it feel as though they had just stepped out moments ago.

・The Former Morita Bank

Our attention was next captured by the Former Morita Bank, its towering presence dominating the low-lying townscape. Built in 1920 in a European classical style, its commanding brick facade and opulent interior was another vivid testament to Mikuni Minato's former wealth. Free to enter, the main hall was vast and awe-inspiring, while the intimate meeting rooms and lounges offered a warm, cozy contrast to the cold, sterile banks of today.

・Mikuni Shrine

We concluded our walk at Mikuni Shrine, which marks the end of Mikuni Minato’s old town. The spacious leafy grounds were a welcome respite from the dense streetscape, and the rustic yet dignified structures mirrored the character of the surrounding architecture. The towering Zuishinmon Gate—erected in 1870 by affluent shipowners—was most impressive, rivaling the grandeur of even Japan’s most revered shrines.

Bonsai Class at Mikunien

Access:
・Public Transport: Approx. 10-minute walk from Mikuni Station.
・Car: Park at Mikuni Station or at another nearby carpark and walk.

Though we found joy in gazing at the magnificent buildings, we were itching to join one of the many hands-on workshops in Mikuni Minato held by renowned experts in traditional Japanese arts like shamisen, bonsai, and more.

We opted for a bonsai lesson at Mikunien, where artist Shitamura runs beginner-friendly bonsai classes. His workshop and gallery sits in a century-old townhouse, its vintage ambiance a worthy setting for the timeless art.

Leading us to a small back garden, Shitamura waited as we browsed through his collection of  pine, cherry, plum, maple, and other saplings to make our bonsai. As a symbol of Japan, I chose a miniature cherry tree, its blossoms destined to color my home come spring.

Shitamura does away with rigid customs to let guests express themselves freely through bonsai. Even with language barriers, it was easy to understand each step through his patient demonstrations. Basic tasks like filling the pot with soil were a breeze, but shaping the branches—done by carefully wrapping them with wire while avoiding the fragile buds—demanded all the skill we could muster.

Once we finished, Shitamura kindly refined our bonsai with his much-appreciated professional touch. He concluded by sharing a few tips on how to care for it, which, if followed correctly, would grant me my very own cherry blossom festival in just a few months!

Lunch: Echizen-gani at Mikuni Inkyojo

Access:
・Public Transport: Approx. 25-minute walk from Mikunien. Or an 8-minute walk from Mikuniminato Station.
・Car: Approx. 5-minute drive from Mikuni Station.

While its trading days are long gone, Mikuni Minato is still one of the largest seafood ports in Fukui. Its claim to fame is the Echizen-gani snow crab, in season from November to mid-March. Strict regulations make Echizen-gani one of Japan’s most coveted crabs, and Mikuni Minato’s are the cream of the crop, proven by the port’s status as the Imperial Household’s official crab provider. With our visit at the peak of Mikuni Minato’s crab season, we headed to seafood restaurant Mikuni Inkyojo to see what the fuss was all about.

Located in front of Mikuni Minato’s main beach, Mikuni Inkyojo prides itself on curating a menu that honors the traditions of the local cuisine and culture. With a plate of premium Echizen-gani beyond our budget, we settled for the cheaper alternative: Seiko-gani. Seiko-gani are female snow crabs, which are smaller and more affordable than their male counterparts. Seiko-gani have an even shorter fishing season than Echizen-gani (November to December) and are often rich in roe, making them a fleeting treat not to be missed.

Unable to resist the allure of cracking into a whole crab, we started with the Seiko-gani Boiled Crab Set Meal. Breaking through the tough shell was no easy task, but we soon forgot our frustrations once we dug into the firm, juicy meat and savory crab roe within. We also ordered the Seiko-gani Chirashi Rice Bowl, which offered immediate indulgence with the striped crab meat mixed with a medley of fresh ingredients like salmon, tuna, and rolled egg.

Hiking Around Tojinbo and Oshima Island

Access:
・Public Transport: Take the Keifuku Bus from Mikuni Station to Tojinbo (approx. 12 mins).
・Car: Approx. 5-minute drive from Mikuni Inkyojo.

Though the town of Mikuni Minato is under the radar to international tourists, the nearby landmark of Tojinbo has long been a popular destination in Japan. Tojinbo is a kilometer-long stretch of steep columnar cliffs formed around 13 million years ago, and its perfectly aligned rows of pentagonal and hexagonal pillars appear almost crafted by human hands.

This mighty geological wonder was made even more stark to us by the biting winter wind, whipping off the crashing waves and testing every ounce of our resolve not to retreat and return in the spring. But we pressed on, following a network of paths down to the shorefront, where we could marvel at the dramatic formations up close while feeling the spray of the waves slapping powerlessly against the rocks. While canceled due to the rough weather on our visit, there are also cruises that depart regularly, granting a fresh look at the cliffs from the water surface below.

From Tojinbo, our attention was drawn to a striking vermilion bridge stretching out toward an island just off the coast. This is Oshima, a nature-rich islet with a circumference of just two kilometers—small enough to circle on foot in 30 minutes.

At the far end of the 224-meter-long bridge stood a towering stone torii gate, signifying the island as sacred ground. We followed the hiking trail clockwise, soon stumbling upon the solitary shrine halls, whose weathered wooden facades fused with the jungly forest, swallowed by a thick canopy that shut out the sunlight. Pressing onward, we broke free from the forest and onto the windswept coastline, where we wandered across an expansive field of magnetic rock slabs, all tilted in unison to create a natural climbing playground.

The Seafood Auction at Mikuni Port Market

Access:
・Public Transport: 15-minute walk from Mikuni Station, or 5-minute walk from Mikuniminato Station.
・Car: Approx. 5-minute drive from Tojinbo.

Driving back to Mikuni Minato, we capped off the day at the Mikuni Port Market, where the town's seafood is hauled in and auctioned off. In a departure from most Japanese seafood auctions, which begin at dawn, Mikuni’s auctions kick off in the evening. Those who book in advance can watch the bidding unfold from a raised viewing platform.

While we prepared ourselves for the typical frenzy of auctions, to our surprise, it was a calm and methodical affair. Fishermen and wholesalers exchanged bids with subtle gestures, which we would have missed if not for the market’s guide pointing them out. Along with our raised lookout point, live camera feeds from the auctioneer also granted an intimate front-row POV of the action.

Much of the bidding was centered around Echizen-gani crab, but the guide also drew our attention to the Fukui sweet shrimp, considered some of the finest shrimp in Japan. 70% of the entire prefecture’s Fukui sweet shrimp are caught at Mikuni Port over the fishing period between May and January (excluding July, August, November, December, and January at Mikuni Port), and strict branding demands them to be sold within 24 hours for maximum freshness.

Accommodation: Auberge Homachi Mikuni Minato

In 2024, nine historic townhouses in Mikuni Minato, some built as far back as the Edo Period, were given new life as self-contained cottages with the opening of Auberge Homachi. Spread throughout town, each is fitted with state-of-the-art facilities blended with the nostalgic warmth and rustic charm of the original structures.

To check into Auberge Homachi, we first visited the central reception building on Kitamae-dori Street. Inside, the soft lighting and wooden accents seamlessly integrated with the retro townscape outside, while the curved wall panels and flowing blue tapestries hanging from the ceiling brought to mind the waves we saw at Tojinbo. Every corner was adorned with Japanese craftsmanship, from the pavement made of “shakudani”—a rare jade-colored stone once mined in Fukui—to nihonga prints capturing scenes from Mikuni Minato’s golden age.

While check-ins are typically a routine part of vacationing, the reception at Homachi is a highlight in itself. The attentive staff presented us with a selection of local sake, served in beautiful Echizen ware pottery, to sip on as they introduced the features of Homachi and shared tips for making the most of Mikuni Minato. Later on, we would return to make use of the private gym, and there are also rental bicycles and bookable activities like walking tours available, listed on the official website.

After finishing the sake, the staff guided us to our quarters. We had reserved Kounoji, a 90 m² home with two cozy bedrooms just steps from Homachi's restaurant. Tucked in an alleyway invisible from the main street, it was both our own private retreat and a convenient sightseeing base.

Ducking beneath the hanging curtain marking the entrance, we paused to admire the home's facade—a sleek upgrade on Mikuni Minato’s old-fashioned storefronts. Despite this facelift, the use of dark wooden boards and latticed sliding doors put it in sync with the neighborhood’s rustic character, granting us the sensation of truly living among the locals. With the chilly winter air urging us inside, the spacious wooden deck left us envious of summertime visitors.

Stepping into the pre-warmed interior, the fully furnished kitchen, bedroom, and lounge embraced us in comfort, making it feel as though we were returning home after a tiring day. The generous amenities—herbal teas, coffee beans to grind, and a hamper-full of beauty products—made even the most mundane routines exciting. But before we could settle in, our growling stomachs led us next door to Homachi's restaurant.

Dinner: Tateru Yoshino Mikuni Minato

Mikuni Minato falls into silence once the sun sets, and dinner options are few and far between. Thankfully, Homachi runs their own restaurant—Tateru Yoshino Mikuni Minato—named after French culinary superstar Tateru Yoshino, the supervising chef.

Tateru Yoshino Mikuni Minato is situated in another of Mikuni Minato’s merchant homes, its modest front belying a vast interior. Our table sat at the far end, tucked in a repurposed storehouse with a soaring arched ceiling crisscrossed with sturdy wooden beams. Passing the open kitchen, the chefs greeted us with enthusiastic smiles, making us feel like VIPs.

With his signature creativity, Chef Yoshino has reimagined the bounties of Mikuni Minato and the Fukui region through novel twists on French-style cooking. The set course is a lengthy feast of bite-sized delicacies, each concentrated on highlighting a handful of local flavors, artfully presented on radiant tableware.

Being newcomers to Fukui cuisine, it was our first time encountering many of the dishes. Some were inventions born from the imagination of Chef Yoshino, while others introduced us to classic Fukui soul foods, like the beloved Echizen soba noodles, given a spin of extra flavor with a dressing of local “Koshino Ruby” tomato and black caviar; as well as the buttery “Wakasa guji” tilefish, an ingredient long sought-after by top-end restaurants.

The best was saved for the main course—Wakasa beef, a rare wagyu from Fukui—encircled by a colorful array of fresh boiled vegetables to balance the meat’s richness.

After two hours of delicious discoveries and lively conversation, our meal at Tateru Yoshino Mikuni Minato concluded with a sweet finale: three rounds of dessert—ice cream, Mont Blanc, and coffee with biscuits.

As we left the restaurant, the enthusiastic waves of the staff behind us, the darkened streets of Mikuni Minato had taken on an otherworldly appearance. Soft lights filtered through the latticed doors and windows of the townhouses, casting an ethereal glow onto the streetscape. By day, the bustle of traffic and locals in modern attire stood in stark contrast to the town’s old-world charm, but after nightfall, the deserted streets let us fully surrender to the illusion of stepping back in time.

Returning to what now felt like home, we cracked open the complimentary beers and reflected on the sensory experiences that had shaped our day—the intimate connection with nature while sculpting bonsai, the bracing yet invigorating wind at Tojinbo, and the unforgettable flavors of the local cuisine.

Day 2: Uncovering the Incredible Attractions Around Mikuni Minato

After a satisfying meal and restful night at Auberge Homachi, we set out to explore the surrounding towns and cities near Mikuni Minato by car. For those without a car, there’s still plenty to enjoy without leaving Mikuni Minato, such as shamisen classes and walking tours bookable at Homachi. A number of nearby destinations, like the hot spring town of Awara Onsen, are also accessible by train.

Yoshizaki Gobo Ruins

Access:
・Public Transport: From Mikuni Station, take a taxi to the Yoshizaki Gobo Ruins (approx. 25 mins).
・Car: Approx. 25-minute drive from Mikuni Station.

We started our final day with a drive out to the Yoshizaki Gobo Ruins, a small but historically significant village further up the coast from Mikuni Minato. Its story began in 1471, when the influential Buddhist monk Rennyo, head priest of Kyoto’s Hongan-ji Temple, established a new base here to escape the growing threat of the powerful Tendai sect.

A quick stroll up temple-lined streets took us to the hilltop where Rennyo founded his spiritual sanctuary. Though little remains of it today, the lush cherry blossom park that occupies the site granted a peaceful respite to admire the idyllic lakeside village below.

Lunch: Rennyo no Sato Awara and eX cafe

After taking in the scenery, we returned to the main street for lunch at the Rennyo no Sato Awara roadside station. Here we tried “sauce katsudon,” another go-to Fukui dish that strips down Japanese katsudon to its basics with a simple pork cutlet dressed in sauce and sat on rice. The rich, tangy sauce accentuated the pork's fatty sweetness, dripping into the rice below to ensure its savory flavor lasted until the final mouthful.

While eating, our attention was hooked by an enormous temple across the street. Upon a close look, it turned out to not be a temple, but a branch of eX cafe, a popular Kyoto matcha cafe, opened in honor of the village's ties to Japan’s ancient capital. Here, we treated ourselves to an early dessert of dango dumplings, self-roasted over a small charcoal fire, with a side of divine matcha-flavored Swiss rolls.

Practicing Buddhist Arts at the Saint Rennyo Memorial Museum

Next door is the Saint Rennyo Memorial Museum, where we signed up for two Buddhist art workshops. First, we assembled a traditional scent bag, filling it with our own blend from a wide selection of aromatic ingredients like sandalwood, clove, and cinnamon. Next, we tried “shakyo,” the ancient practice of sutra copying, where we wrote out holy phrases using a brush and inkstone to calm and sharpen the mind.

Engaging our most fundamental senses, these simple and repetitive exercises lulled us into a state of meditation. To further deepen this reflective mindset, we meandered over to the Kashima Forest—a dense grove atop an oval mound—where we found our own sanctuary in the mossy Kashima Shrine.

Samurai Experiences at Maruoka Castle

Access:
・Public Transport: From the Yoshizaki Gobo Ruins, take a taxi to Maruoka Castle (approx. 30 mins)
・Car: Approx. 30-minute drive from Yoshizaki Gobo Ruins.

Alongside Tojinbo, Maruoka Castle is another icon that no visit to Fukui would be complete without. Built in 1576, this verdant hilltop fort contains one of just 12 castle towers that have remained intact since the Edo Period. While small compared to its sprawling contemporaries like Himeji Castle, its stoic and timeworn appearance radiates a sense of raw history that makes up for its modest stature.

After roaming the garden, thick with maple and cherry trees bare for winter, we ascended the long stone staircase and entered the tower. Built with the practical purpose of defense and warfare in mind, the castle's three floors appeared plain and unadorned. However, a closer look revealed features like stone-dropping shoots, arrow and gun slits, and lookout points that command sweeping views of the surrounding region—reminders of the turbulent era in which it was constructed, when much of Japan was embroiled in civil war.

We left the castle by a path on the opposite side of the park, heading toward the quiet streets below to reach Cafe Maruko. Here, the local staff, who have a deep passion for promoting Maruoka Castle, host a variety of activities to make visits more memorable.

Inspired by the stoic visage of the castle, we opted for Maruko's samurai armor experience. The armor craftsman himself dressed us in our choice of striking battle outfit, his steady, practiced hands making us feel like hardened generals preparing for war. Fully outfitted, we clanked our way over to the nearby park, where the castle loomed overhead. The general lack of crowds, reduced even more by the frigid weather, kept prying eyes away, giving us the privacy needed to fully immerse ourselves in our very own “Shogun” moment.

Sake Tastings at Kubota Brewery

Access:
・Public Transport: From Maruoka Castle, take a taxi to Kubota Brewery (approx. 5 mins).
・Car: Approx. 5-minute drive from Maruoka Castle.

While far from one of the big sake regions of Japan, Fukui’s small-scale, artisanal brewing culture has earned it a following for sake lovers in the know. Representing the best of this is Kubota Brewery, located a 5-minute drive from Maruoka Castle, who have been brewing in the area for over 270 years. Welcoming us was Mr. Kubota himself, the 11th-generation head brewer, who runs tours proudly showcasing his family’s heritage.

Unlike many modernized sake breweries, Kubota Brewery remains dedicated to the traditional brewing season of winter, making our visit perfectly timed with its most exciting elements. Activity buzzed around us—barrels of rice erupted with steam while workers vigorously shoveled it into containers to be mixed and fermented. As we watched mesmerized, Mr. Kubota explained his methods, including his ancestors' long-standing tradition of using local well water and cultivating their own rice.

Our tour also included a generous tasting session curated by Mr. Kubota. We sampled everything from affordable classics to premium “daiginjo” (sake brewed from highly-milled rice) and freshly-pressed, unpasteurized sake for the purest version of the drink. Mixing it up were original liqueurs brewed with sake, including plum, yuzu, and passionfruit, cleansing our palates with an invigorating sourness. Once we’d found our favorites, we picked out a few travel-sized bottles to enjoy at our next accommodation.

Footbaths at Awara Onsen

Access:
・Public Transport: From Kubota Brewery, take a taxi to Awara Onsen Yunomachi Park (approx. 25 mins). If coming directly from Mikuni Minato, take a train on the Echizen Railway from Mikuni Station to Awara-Yunomachi Station (approx. 8 minutes).
・Car: Approx. 25-minute drive from Kubota Brewery.

Before departing Mikuni Minato, we made one last stop at the serene hot spring resort of Awara Onsen. Surrounded by placid countryside and with 74 hot spring sources flowing from beneath the ground, those in need of serious rejuvenation tend to hole up at one of Awara Onsen’s charming traditional inns, each of which boasts its own individual hot spring with unique health benefits. On the other hand, day-trippers like us can find more casual relaxation at the free footbaths in the center of town.

・ Awara Onsen Yunomachi Park

Awara Onsen’s footbaths are housed in a gorgeous old-fashioned building in Yunomachi Park, right by Awara-Yunomachi Station on the Echizen Railway. Here, water drawn directly from the hot springs flows freely into spacious tubs, which are crafted from fine materials like aromatic cypress wood and Fukui’s signature shakudani stone. Under the gentle glow of festive lanterns, we soaked our weary feet and reflected on our two days of adventure.

・Yukemuri Yokocho

Also in Yunomachi Park is Yukemuri Yokocho, a retro laneway crammed with hole-in-the-wall eateries serving hearty dishes like ramen, seafood, skewers, and more. While we had dinner plans elsewhere, the ambient vibe left us with a strong final impression of Mikuni Minato and the greater region, and a return trip to further uncover its cultural treasures was already on our minds.

2 Days of Historical Streets, Cultural Experiences, and Local Food in Mikuni Minato

After crafting our own bonsai, finding peace in Buddhist arts, savoring regional delicacies, and spending the night in a traditional townhouse, our time in Mikuni Minato truly deepened our understanding and appreciation of Japanese culture. But the best part? The quiet, crowd-free streets where we could wander at our own pace and soak in the town's rich history. If your ideal travel experience involves blending in with local life and connecting with traditions through hands-on experiences, be sure to stay on the bullet train after Kanazawa and continue your journey to Mikuni Minato!