3 Days in Tono and Hanamaki - Northern Japan's Fairytale Towns

This article was sponsored by Tono City. 

What Makes Tono and Hanamaki the Fairytale Towns of Japan

Tono is best known through “The Legends of Tono,” a famous folklore collection by Kunio Yanagita, who is considered the founder of Japanese folklore studies. It covers tales of mysterious beings and spirits that have been passed down for generations in the Tono locality. 

As we wandered the town, this folklore came alive in kappa-themed manholes, streetlights, statues, and even foods. Kappa - mischievous, water-dwelling creatures with turtle shells, webbed hands, and a love of cucumbers - can be dangerous yet helpful if befriended. In Tono, these legends feel just a heartbeat away, adding magic to every corner!

Nearby Hanamaki carries the same enchanting spirit, with soothing hot springs - among the most celebrated in northern Japan - and as the hometown of author Miyazawa Kenji, whose whimsical works such as Night on the Galactic Railroad reflect the poetic soul of the area. 

Together, Tono and Hanamaki invite you into a side of Japan where folklore, literature, and nature remain beautifully alive. Follow us on a 3-day exploration through this spellbinding region!

How to Get to Tono and Hanamaki From Tokyo

Tono and Hanamaki are easily accessible from Tokyo by train. Take the Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Shin-Hanamaki Station (approx. 3 hours). From Hanamaki, Tono is about a 42-minute train ride on the Kamaishi Line or a 38-minute drive. 

Renting a car or bicycle in the area is convenient for exploring rural spots, shrines, and scenic areas.

Day 1: Tono’s Kappa and Countryside Enchantment

Explore Tonogo Hachimangu Shrine and the Cat Shrine by Bicycle

Access: The Tono City Tourism Association is a 1-minute walk from Tono Station. Tonogo Hachimangu Shrine is a 15-minute bike ride from the Tono City Tourism Association. 

Just steps from Tono Station, the Tono City Tourism Association is the perfect starting point for your Tono’s adventure. Rent a bicycle - classic or e-bike - and browse the association’s whimsical kappa-themed souvenirs before setting off. 

We easily cycled past rice fields and tiny shrines to Tonogo Hachiman Shrine, a historic site established in 1189 by the local feudal lord and famed for its grand festival that features “yabusame” horseback archery.

We rode under the giant stone “torii” gate to the main entrance then purified ourselves at the cute kappa-themed “chozuya” basin. 

Walking along the main shrine path lined with towering trees, the soft, misty light and gentle rustle of leaves made the vermilion main hall stand out even more against the surrounding green, its intricate carvings whispering tales of centuries past.

Next to the vermilion torii is Tono’s enchanting Cat Shrine, a charming spot dedicated to Otora-sama, the devoted tiger-striped cat of Tonogo Hachimangu Shrine, where visitors can pray for the health and longevity of their beloved cats. 

The shrine’s plaque is adorably cat-themed, and tiny cat statues decorate it, giving the space a playful feel. 

We couldn’t resist picking up its cat-themed “goshuin,” beautifully stamped shrine seals that make a perfect keepsake for cat lovers. We were even lucky enough to spot one of the shrine’s resident cats, adding an extra dose of cuteness to our visit!

Denshoen - Discover Tono’s Traditional Way of Life and Enjoy Kappa Snacks

Access: Ride back to the Tono City Tourism Association. Denshoen is a 10-minute car ride or alternatively a 20-minute bus ride from Tono Station.

After exploring Tonogo Hachimangu Shrine and the Cat Shrine, we visited Denshoen, a charming open-air museum where it’s possible to see how villagers lived in tune with nature and the folktales of Tono. As we wandered past Nanbu Magariya houses - traditional L-shaped farmhouses unique to the region that combined living quarters and stables under one roof - a watermill, and tiny patches of blooming flowers, it felt less like a museum and more like a place where the past still thrives.

We explored the Former Kikuchi Family Residence, a nationally designated Important Cultural Property dating back to 1750, and snapped cute photos with the kappa mascots, using a cucumber as bait for fun.

Afterward, we stopped at the on-site restaurant, with tatami seating reminiscent of an old teahouse and a small kappa-themed “noren” curtain fluttering in the window, perfectly capturing the spirit of Tono. 

There, we treated ourselves to kappayaki, kappa-shaped pastries made with mulberry powder kneaded into the dough and filled with red bean paste or custard cream. They were almost too adorable to eat!

Kappabuchi and Kappa's Teahouse - On the Quest for Kappa at Tono’s Legendary Pool

Access: A 9-minute walk from Denshoen.

Just minutes from Denshoen lies Kappabuchi, or Kappa Pool, one of Tono’s most famous spots. Surrounded by lush vegetation, its gently flowing waters shimmered a deep green and were crystal clear, looking as if a kappa might surface at any moment.

On the bank stood two kappa statues and a small shrine dedicated to the goddess of breastfeeding. It is said that if a woman prays here for her breast milk to be plentiful, her wish will be granted.

We couldn’t resist snapping photos with the kappa statues, imagining our own adventure trying to lure these legendary creatures with cucumbers. Capture a kappa and present it to the local Tono TV station to claim a reward of up to ten million yen! Ready to embark on this legendary quest?

A short walk away brought us to Kappa’s Teahouse. We tried the kappa soft serve - creamy vanilla ice cream dusted with matcha and topped with a biscuit shaped like a kappa’s head - along with the sweet red bean paste flavored Zashiki Warashi soft serve - inspired by house spirits said to bring good fortune - both served with adorable themed spatulas.

Aragami Shrine - See the Same Authentic Scenery the People of Tono Saw Centuries Ago

Access: A 10-minute car drive from Kappabuchi.

No trip to Tono feels complete without a visit to Aragami Shrine, a tiny thatched-roof sanctuary standing quietly in the middle of endless rice fields. We could almost believe we had stumbled into a scene from a Ghibli film - the kind of place where Totoro might appear at any moment. Legends say the fiery deity enshrined here once quarreled with another god and even bit off his ear, earning the nickname Aragami-sama, or “rough god.”

This is considered one of the spots where the most authentic landscapes of Japan have been preserved, remaining much as they were centuries ago. In spring, the shrine reflects in the flooded paddies like a painting; in summer, it hides among lush green rice swaying in the wind; in autumn, it’s embraced by golden fields ready for harvest; and in winter, a quiet blanket of snow transforms it into a scene of pure serenity.

Kamigocho Sunflower Fields - Bask in a Golden Sea of Flowers

Access: A 10-minute car drive from Aragami Shrine.

Just a short trip from central Tono, the Kamigocho Sunflower Fields are a golden summer wonder, with approximately 70,000 sunflowers in bloom. Originally planted by local farmers, the fields have grown into a beloved seasonal landmark. Visiting just before sunset, we were mesmerized by the sun casting a glow across the towering sunflowers as it sank. Stretching alongside the JR Kamaishi Line, the fields are a favorite spot for capturing the charming one-car trains weaving through this sea of gold.

Lien Tono - An Authentic Taste of Life and Hospitality in Tono

Access: A 14-minute car drive from the Kamigocho Sunflower Fields.

After a day exploring Tono’s folk legends, we made our way to Lien Tono, a beautifully renovated 70-year-old accommodation. The inn was the childhood home of the owner, who returned from Tokyo with his wife to share the charm of traditional rural living with guests. 

From the moment we arrived, they welcomed us warmly, sharing stories of Tono and their own life. Inside, wooden corridors and tatami rooms exuded nostalgic warmth, while the gentle sounds of crickets outside felt like a lullaby. Torches flickered by the entrance, radiating a warm, inviting light, and sitting on the veranda, we felt completely at peace.

Later, we gathered around the garden BBQ, where fresh vegetables - like incredibly sweet tomatoes and zucchini - harvested from the owner’s own field became part of a memorable meal: “jingisukan” - grilled lamb with vegetables on a dome-shaped pan - which is a specialty of Tono that offered a true taste of the region. Sitting by the fire, we chatted the evening away with the owner. 

The next morning, breakfast was served in the garden - a serene way to start the day surrounded by the gentle sounds of nature.

 

During our stay, the owner also led us up the mountain behind the house, climbing 100 stone steps to the Inari shrine nestled in a thick forest that radiated an otherworldly calm, then through the forest to a viewpoint where we could take in the vast nature of Tono from above.

Day 2: Tono and Hanamaki - Farm-to-Table Gourmet Adventures

Miyamori Wasabi - Harvest One of Japan’s Premium Wasabi With a Local Farmer

Access: A 42-minute car drive from Lien Tono.

Tono boasts the highest production of wasabi in northern Japan, and at Miyamori we discovered why. Tucked away in the mountains and blessed with pure, icy spring water, this area produces prize-winning wasabi of the highest quality.

We joined a tour with English support led by a farmer who has been cultivating wasabi here for over 40 years. Outfitted with boots and gloves, we stepped into the shallow streams where the wasabi plants grow. Even through our rainboots, the water felt crisp - yet it’s this pristine flow that gives Tono’s wasabi its concentrated, premium flavor.

Harvesting a root with our own hands felt like uncovering a hidden treasure. The farmer showed us how to loosen the plant and pull it up just right - sharing the kind of tips only a pro with decades of experience could give. Between stories of farming life in Tono and her favorite cooking tricks with wasabi and its leaves, the time spent together felt like a real exchange with the community. We left with our very own freshly harvested wasabi root and a jar of pickled wasabi leaves.

Tono Furasato Village - Cook Your Own Soba Noodles in a Traditional Home

Access: A 20-minute car drive from Miyamori Wasabi.

Our journey through Tono’s countryside continued at Tono Furusato Village, an open-air museum spread across a vast forested area that preserves seven Nanbu Magariya houses. With no electric poles or modern intrusions in sight, we could almost imagine life in Tono as it must have been in the past.

After strolling through the village and soaking in the nostalgic scenery, we rolled up our sleeves for a hands-on soba-making class using locally grown buckwheat flour inside one of the traditional Nanbu Magariya houses.

Following the teacher’s instructions, we chatted as we kneaded and cut the noodles. Eating the soba we made ourselves made it taste even better, especially when paired with freshly grated wasabi from our earlier harvest that released a sharp, clean aroma!

It was a fun and delicious way to connect with Tono’s culinary traditions and experience the flavors of the region firsthand.

Sasacho - Discover the Secrets of a Fifth-Generation Soy Sauce and Miso Brewery

Access: A 45-minute car drive from Tono Furusato Village. 

Since 1906, Sasacho has been crafting high-quality miso, soy sauce, and “mentsuyu” soup base, and it is now a fifth-generation company renowned nationwide for producing exceptional products using traditional methods.

During our visit, we were amazed by the enormous wooden barrels that are over 100 years old used to ferment the soy sauce and miso - artisans capable of making these barrels no longer exist, and most companies now rely on modern machinery. These barrels are true treasures from the past, allowing Sasacho to continue creating its rich, deeply flavorful products even today.

As we wandered through the aging warehouse, guided by the fifth-generation owner himself, classical music - Beethoven - played softly in the background, a tradition said to help the miso develop even deeper flavors. Visiting the brewery felt like getting a peek behind the meticulous care and history that go into each batch, making the experience truly unforgettable.

At the on-site shop, they sell miso, soy sauce, and their bestselling “Shinise no Aji Tsuyu,” which is still carefully hand-packed by the staff. We also had fun trying the sacred Hayachine water flowing straight from a fountain on-site. This crystal-clear spring water, naturally filtered from melted snow seeping underground at the foot of Mt. Hayachine, one of Japan’s top 100 mountains, is a vital ingredient in Sasacho’s miso and soy sauce!

Marukan Building - A Revival of Nostalgia and Play in Hanamaki

Access: A 16-minute car drive from Sasacho.

In Hanamaki, few places are as beloved as the Marukan Building, once home to the town’s only department store. When it closed in 2016, locals mourned the loss of a landmark, but thanks to the passion of community members, it was miraculously revived just a year later. 

At its heart is the Marukan Restaurant, a lively dining hall on the sixth floor where the panoramic view over Hanamaki pairs perfectly with retro comfort foods such as “napori katsu,” spaghetti with tomato ketchup topped with a cutlet.

We couldn’t resist their famous 10-tier soft serve ice cream, which you eat with chopsticks. A little quirky and a little nostalgic, it brought out that childlike excitement that makes food taste even better!

But Marukan’s story doesn’t end with food. In 2020, the second floor became home to the Hanamaki Toy Museum, an interactive, wood-filled wonderland built with over 30 species of Iwate-grown trees. 

Designed for all ages, it celebrates play, creativity, and local culture. Walking inside, we were surrounded by warm wooden details: pillars shaped like tree trunks and play areas that feel like miniature forests, bringing the outdoors in.

We wandered through wooden play equipment inspired by Hanamaki traditions, like an othello game themed around wanko soba - a specialty of Hanamaki - and building blocks shaped after their famous 10-tier soft serve. 

With the scent of wood all around and toys that spark the kind of simple joy you remember from childhood, Hanamaki Toy Museum is the kind of place where families can linger for hours, and where adults might find themselves just as eager to play as the kids.

Day 3 : Hanamaki - Exploring the City’s Highlights

Shishi Odori - Witness the 1,000-Year-Old Deer Dance of Hanamaki

We started the day with one of Hanamaki’s most iconic traditions: the Shishi Odori, or Deer Dance. We had the special opportunity to witness this captivating performance outside of its usual setting. Typically, you can experience this incredible display during the Hanamaki Festival in September, when the city fills with elaborate floats and dance groups from across the prefecture showcasing this living tradition.

As we watched, the dancers sprang into motion, each carrying a drum strapped to their stomach, their movements alternating between powerful and delicate to the rhythm of their beating. Their headpieces, made of real deer antlers and long black horsehair, swayed with every step, while bamboo poles called “sasara” arched high above their backs, creating a mesmerizing spectacle. 

We couldn’t help but be swept up in the energy and artistry of this millennia-old folk dance. The Shishi Odori is said to pray for peace and drive away evil spirits, and witnessing it firsthand felt like stepping into a living piece of Hanamaki’s history.

Wanko Soba at Yabuya - Hanamaki’s Delicious, Century-Old Culinary Challenge

Access: A 11-minute walk from Hanamaki Station.

Next, we visited Yabuya, a legendary spot where Hanamaki’s most iconic dish, wanko soba, has been served for generations since 1923. The history of wanko soba stretches back over 400 years to the days of Hanamaki Castle. 

It is said that the head of a prominent samurai family stopped here on his way to Tokyo and was so impressed by the local specialty that he was offered endless refills in small lacquer bowls - the origin of wanko soba.

The fun began the moment we were greeted with a stack of tiny bowls, each holding a small portion of soba in delicate broth. The waitress was impressively fast, and soon the empty bowls started piling up in front of us, forming little towers as we challenged each other to keep going.  Alongside the soba, we were given small portions of different side dishes to help us keep going and cleanse the palate, which added variety and made the experience even more enjoyable!

Reaching 100 bowls is the coveted feat. Although we didn’t get that far - finishing with just 30 and 50 bowls respectively - we still purchased a commemorative plaque, with the staff writing the date and number of bowls to mark our achievement. Laughing and cheering at each bite, we felt fully immersed in Hanamaki’s playful and delicious culinary heritage!

*The wanko soba experience includes a complimentary paper certificate, while the wooden plaque is available for purchase separately.

Osawa Onsen - Step Back in Time at Hanamaki’s Iconic Hot Springs

Access: A 19-minute car drive from Yabuya.

Our day continued at Osawa Onsen, one of 12 unique hot spring areas that make up Hanamaki’s renowned onsen region. Each area offers its own distinct atmosphere, and throughout Hanamaki, visitors can enjoy everything from secluded inns tucked into quiet gorges to open-air baths overlooking mountain streams. With such a wide range of settings and experiences, onsen hopping is a popular way to explore the diversity of Hanamaki’s onsen region and discover your personal favorite.

Steeped in over 1,200 years of history, Osawa Onsen is especially known for its serene riverside setting and healing waters. It comprises three distinct facilities for a total of six baths, each providing a peaceful escape from the bustle of daily life.

We first stepped into Tojiya, a 200-year-old traditional inn where guests come to stay for extended periods of “toji,” therapeutic retreats designed to heal both mind and body through immersion in the hot spring waters. Next, we explored Kikusuikan, a beautifully restored, 170-year-old thatched-roof hall now used as a multi-purpose space. Finally, next to Tojiya is also Sansuikaku, a refined Japanese-style inn that blends classic charm with elegant, modern architecture.

Crossing the bridges that connect the three different facilities from one side of the river to the other,  we could take in the full beauty of Osawa Onsen: the river winding through lush greenery, old wooden structures, and onsen baths blending seamlessly with nature. Though only a short drive from Hanamaki, it feels like a secluded treasure straight out of a Ghibli movie. We imagined the snow blanketing the roofs in winter, or autumn leaves adding fiery color. Even now, surrounded by vibrant green, the timeless charm of this place makes it feel like stepping into another world!

Mountain Station Showa School - A Journey Through 1960s Japan

Access: A 3-minute car drive from Osawa Onsen’s Tojiya.

Our last stop was Mountain Station Showa School, where we stepped into a lively recreation of the 1960s. The museum, with over 200,000 exhibits, brings the Showa Period to life.

From candy stores to record shops, we wandered from one colorful Showa-era spot to another each bursting with playful details and lively colors. It was impossible not to feel swept up in the energy of the era, imagining life during Japan’s period of rapid growth, when instant noodles, coffee, and televisions became symbols of hope and prosperity.

The museum’s owner shared his vision of making it one of the largest Showa collections in Japan, and it’s easy to see his pride in every carefully curated exhibit. He makes sure the displays are always changing, so even repeat visitors have surprises to discover, and seasonal touches, like summer shaved-ice glasses, add extra charm. It’s a must-visit for retro lovers!

Tono and Hanamaki - A Fairytale Journey Through Northern Japan

Tono and Hanamaki offer a magical blend of nature, folklore, and hands-on experiences. From cycling past serene rice fields and harvesting fresh wasabi to savoring wanko soba and exploring toy-filled wonderlands every moment feels like stepping into a storybook. These northern Japan towns are ready to share their stories with you, so come and visit!