Another Side of Tokyo: Untouched Nature and Warm Hospitality on Hahajima, 1,000 km from the City

*This article was sponsored by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government.

1,000 km from Tokyo: Hahajima Access and Climate

My journey to Hahajima began at Tokyo Takeshiba Terminal, where I boarded the Ogasawara Maru, a regular large ship service, for a roughly 24-hour voyage to Chichijima, followed by a two-hour ride on the Hahajima Maru to Hahajima. Although the journey takes more than a day each way, it felt like the beginning of a special adventure, offering me a chance to slow down, take my time, and reflect without rushing. I enjoyed the leisurely passage aboard the ship, watching the blue of the ocean deepen as the busyness of everyday life gradually faded away.

Located in a subtropical climate, Hahajima is warm year-round, although temperatures can drop below 20°C in winter. The island is also particularly susceptible to typhoons from mid-August through November, and weather conditions can change quickly even during other seasons. For this reason, it’s essential to bring rain gear, breathable clothing, and comfortable walking shoes when hiking or exploring on foot. During my stay, I had the chance to walk through the forest in the rain. The wet leaves glistened as they reflected the light, while birdsong blended gently with the quiet sound of the rain, creating an almost magical scene. One of the pleasures of Hahajima is experiencing the changing weather as part of its unique natural beauty.

The Mysterious Bonin Blue: A Pristine World Where Sea Turtles Thrive

The waters of the Ogasawara Islands are nicknamed “Bonin Blue” for their deep, crystal-clear blue hue. At Wakihama Nagisa Park, the pristine waters stretched as far as I could see, while the gentle waves welcomed me to the island. Simply sitting on the beach, listening to the sound of the ocean and feeling the sea breeze on my skin, gave me a profound sense of peace, clearing my mind.

A wide range of activities can be enjoyed in the beautiful waters around Hahajima, including snorkeling and diving, as well as whale watching and fishing, depending on the season. Strolling along the placid shore, I even spotted sea turtles gliding gracefully through the water. I then headed up to the Samegasaki Observation Deck, where a panoramic view of the harbor and surrounding islands stretched out before me. I spent some time gazing out at the sea, picturing the world of marine life hidden beneath, then studied the deck’s information boards about whale watching. Simply standing there and taking it all in, the tranquility and gradations of blue further soothed my heart.

Encountering Endemic Species in a Primeval Forest

Having never been connected to a continent, Hahajima is a precious haven for life, home to organisms that have evolved in their own unique ways. Numerous endemic species thrive here, including the Bonin White-eye bird, a Special Natural Monument found nowhere else in Japan but the Hahajima archipelago. As I hiked through Mt. Chibusa, Mt. Sakaigatake, and the Shizukasawa Forest, I felt as though I had traveled back in time to an ancient Earth, covered in primeval forest. Walking through the tunnel of green trees, my guide taught me about the island's nature and history, giving me a deeper understanding of its environment.

Deep within the forest, remnants of history such as cannons from the former Japanese military remain. Coming across a massive rusted cannon standing in the middle of the great outdoors rather than a museum was a surreal moment. I found myself reflecting deeply as an American on the weight of the history shared by our two countries. The sight of nature and history intertwining left a lasting impression long after my visit.

Sunsets on the Horizon and a Sky Full of Stars

Time on Hahajima moves at a leisurely pace, in step with the movement of the sun and the changing hues of the sky. Even compared with the many sights I’ve seen across the world, the sunsets I watched from Sunset Theater and the Samegasaki Observation Deck, two of my favorite spots on the island, took my breath away. There was something deeply soothing about simply sitting and gazing at the horizon as it turned crimson, without thinking about anything at all. It was truly a moment of blissful escape.

As night fell, the island was enveloped in silence and deep darkness. I made my way to the Former Hahajima Heliport, where the streetlights go out around 10 pm. A star-filled sky stretched overhead, so vast and mesmerizing that I felt as though I could be drawn into it. Lying on the ground in the gentle night breeze and gazing up at the sky, I was even lucky enough to see a beautiful shooting star.

Spending the night in an open space with almost no artificial light, listening only to the sound of the waves, was a rare luxury that allowed me to completely forget the hecticness of everyday life.

Island Cuisine and Smiles: Experiencing the Warmth of the Local Community

What made this trip even more memorable was the warm smiles of the islanders and the richness of the local food culture. When I stopped by a local shop, I was pleasantly surprised to find a wide selection of goods at reasonable prices, even on a remote island. Browsing the island’s unique sweets and groceries gave me a glimpse into the lives of the locals and a chance to experience the warm atmosphere of the community up close.

The shop even had sweets made with “shima lemons,” which thrive in Hahajima’s ample sunshine and boast a refreshing aroma, as well as local spirits and natural sea salt. I had a blast browsing the fantastic selection and choosing souvenirs to take home.

I also had the chance to savor some of Hahajima’s distinctive dishes at local restaurants. I started with the famous “shima-zushi” (island sushi). Instead of wasabi, it is seasoned with “karashi” mustard, which pairs perfectly with the light-sweet sauce. The sashimi platter was fresh and delicious, presenting a wonderful variety of fish caught around Hahajima.

As I tucked into the food, I got chatting with locals sitting next to me. When I told them about the places I had visited on Hahajima, they offered me precious local advice on how to make the most of the island and shared recommendations for new places to check out.

Hahajima is a hidden paradise far from the bustling metropolis of Tokyo. Here, I found the crystal-clear waters of Bonin Blue, calm forests steeped in the memories of ancient times, and the warm smiles of people who welcome travelers with open arms. Even without flashy attractions, the time spent surrounded by the gentle sound of the waves and the kindness of the locals will soothe a weary heart. For those who want to reflect on themselves and experience unspoiled nature, we definitely recommend setting out on a soul-soothing journey to Hahajima.