2-Day Tokushima Itinerary - Home of the Awa Odori and the Scenic Iya Valley

About Tokushima Prefecture

Nestled in the eastern part of Shikoku, Tokushima is a prefecture where natural beauty and vibrant culture exist side by side. 

Despite stretching less than 100 kilometers from north to south, Tokushima features a surprisingly diverse climate. The southeastern coastline enjoys mild, warmer conditions, while temperatures drop noticeably in the mountainous west. This variation contributes to the prefecture’s rich environmental character, from coastal scenery to deep inland valleys, and supports an abundance of agricultural and marine products, including Tokushima’s famous sudachi citrus and Naruto kintoki sweet potatoes.

Tokushima’s deep-rooted cultural and spiritual traditions also attract visitors from across Japan and beyond. Highlights include the Awa Odori - Japan’s largest traditional dance festival, which brings the entire prefecture to life come August - as well as the first 23 temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, an important route for those seeking spiritual reflection.

Access to Tokushima

How to Get to Tokushima From Tokyo

The quickest and most convenient way to travel from Tokyo to Tokushima is by flying from Narita or Haneda Airport to Tokushima Awaodori Airport, with a flight time of about 1 hour and 20 minutes. As the airport also handles international flights, Tokushima can easily serve as your entry point to Japan.

How to Get to Tokushima From Osaka or Kyoto

Traveling by train involves multiple transfers. Take the Sanyo Shinkansen to Okayama Station, transfer to the Seto-Ohashi Line, and continue to Takamatsu Station. From there, switch to the Uzushio limited express to reach Tokushima Station. The full journey takes around 3.5 hours.

Traveling Within Tokushima

While Tokushima does have train and bus networks, along with ferries connecting the prefecture to nearby islands as well as the mainland, services tend to be less frequent and extensive than in larger Japanese cities. 

If you’re short on time and want to make the most of your visit, renting a car or hiring a charter taxi is highly recommended. 

For those planning to travel beyond Tokushima and explore more of Shikoku, the JR All Shikoku Rail Pass can be a cost-effective option for getting around the region.

Day 1: Exploring Tokushima’s Cultural Roots

The first day centers on Tokushima City, the prefectural capital. While many of Tokushima’s top attractions lie beyond the city, it remains the largest urban hub where a variety of cultural traditions and heritage sites come together, making it an ideal place to explore the region’s history.

AM: Tokushima Castle Ruins

Access: About a 15-minute walk from Tokushima Station.

Set on Shiroyama Hill near the heart of Tokushima City, Tokushima Castle served as the seat of power for the Hachisuka clan, who ruled the Tokushima domain for nearly 300 years until the Meiji Restoration (1868 - 1889). Although the original structures were dismantled in 1875, remnants such as its distinctive stone walls - built with locally sourced crystalline schist - still remain, preserving the atmosphere of the former stronghold.

Today, the site has been turned into a spacious park, with the Tokushima Castle Museum standing on the original grounds of the castle’s palace. We particularly recommend checking out the miniature reconstruction of the old Tokushima Castle palace, as well as the life-size reimagination of a typical street inside the castle town.

While the surrounding park is lovely, especially in spring when cherry blossoms are in full bloom, the Omotegoten Garden which sits right next to the museum is also worth visiting. Designated as a Place of Scenic Beauty, it showcases classic Japanese garden design elements such as a landscaped pond and dry rock garden. The garden was designed under the direction of warlord Ueda Soko, a disciple of the renowned tea master Sen no Rikyu.

AM: Hyotanjima Tour Boat

Access: About a 20-minute walk from the Tokushima Castle Ruins.

Hyotanjima is a gourd-shaped, island-like area encircled by the Shinmachi and Suketo Rivers in downtown Tokushima. 

Setting off from the boat pier near Ryogoku Bridge, this approximately 30-minute, 6-kilometer cruise loops around the area, offering ever-changing views of the city from the water. As the boat glides along canals once linked to the outer moat of Tokushima Castle, the scenery shifts between urban charm and peaceful waterside greenery.

A quick tip: Do not stand up! The boat passes through many bridges, some so low that you need to duck as you pass through them.

Beyond these harrowing but exciting moments, other highlights of the boat tour include spotting flocks of seabirds and learning more about the city from the friendly and enthusiastic guide. It’s a short, incredibly affordable, and fun way to get a quick tour of the city from a whole new perspective.

Lunch: Ramen Todai Omichi Main Store

Access: About a 10-minute walk from the boat pier near Ryogoku Bridge.

Founded in 1999, Ramen Todai was established with the ambitious goal of reaching the pinnacle of the ramen world. Over the years, it has grown beyond its local roots, expanding across Japan while helping bring Tokushima ramen into the national spotlight.

Tokushima ramen typically consists of a soy sauce-based tonkotsu broth topped with tender, sweet-and-savory stewed pork, bean sprouts, and a raw egg. This signature combination produces flavors reminiscent of sukiyaki, a hearty Japanese hot pot dish.

There’s a reason Ramen Todai is a go-to spot for this beloved local dish. For under 1,000 yen, you can enjoy a flavorful bowl of ramen along with unlimited servings of raw eggs, white rice, and garlic at no extra cost. Just follow your instincts when eating it - dip the pork into the raw egg, add rice straight into the soup… savor it however you like!

Don’t like garlic? Let the staff know when you’re seated.

PM: Tokushima Prefectural Awa Jurobe Yashiki

Access: Head back to Tokushima Station on foot and then take the train to Awa Jurobe Yashiki Station. It’s a very short walk from there. The total journey time should be around 45 minutes.

Awa Jurobe Yashiki is a unique facility in Tokushima where you can experience “Awa ningyo joruri,” a traditional puppet theater art designated as a National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property.

The main attraction is the 30-minute performance of Keisei Awa no Naruto, a moving Edo-period story centered on family conflict. English subtitles are displayed on a panel above the stage, so you can follow along even without understanding Japanese. If you’re sticking to this itinerary and plan to catch the show, make sure to get to the theater by 1:30 pm in time for the 2:00 pm performance!

There is also an exhibition room showcasing the puppets, costumes, and history of this art form, as well as a lovely Japanese garden that’s well worth a stroll before or after the show.

PM: Tokushima Awa Odori Hall

Access: Walk back to Awa Jurobe Yashiki Station and take the Tokushima City Bus (clockwise) to the Yaoyamachi bus stop. From there, it’s a 10-minute walk. The total journey time is just over 20 minutes.

This is one of the best places to experience the energy and history of the Awa Odori festival.

Tokushima Awa Odori Hall hosts daily performances by several skilled dance troupes, combining lively demonstrations of the dance with explanations of its history, music, and more. There are also interactive segments where the audience can join in, adding to the thrill of the shows.

Beyond the performances, there is a museum with exhibits on the festival’s origins and hands-on activities such as playing traditional instruments used during the festival and experiencing Awa Odori in VR. A souvenir shop on the first floor offers a wide selection of Tokushima specialties and traditional crafts, making the facility both a cultural attraction and a great place to take home a piece of the prefecture’s culture.

If you’re following this itinerary exactly, you will most likely make it on time for the last daytime showing at 4:00 pm. In that case, please buy a combination ticket to also cover the fee for the Bizan Ropeway, which we’ll cover in the next section. Otherwise, we suggest visiting for the nighttime show at 8:00 pm since it’s slightly longer and offers additional highlights.

PM: Awagin Bizan Ropeway and Mt. Bizan

Access: Directly connected to the 5th floor of the Tokushima Awa Odori Hall.

End your Tokushima exploration with a gorgeous panoramic night view of the entire city!

The Bizan Ropeway offers a convenient and scenic journey to the summit of Mt. Bizan, a beloved symbol of Tokushima City. Departing directly from the fifth floor of the Tokushima Awa Odori Hall, the ropeway reaches the mountaintop in around six minutes, ascending to an elevation of approximately 290 meters above the city below.

At the summit, you can take in sweeping views of Tokushima City, with clear days offering sights as far as Awaji Island and the Kii Peninsula. The area also features unique attractions such as a fence where couples attach padlocks as a symbol of eternal love, as well as one of Japan’s largest LED kaleidoscopes.

Dinner: Toribon Honten

Access: About a 15-minute walk from the Tokushima Awa Odori Hall.

Toribon Honten is arguably one of Tokushima’s top yakitori stores, landing in the top 100 on Tabelog’s yakitori restaurant rankings for west Japan in 2023 and 2024. Established in 2002, the restaurant mainly serves dishes made with Tokushima’s famed Awa Odori chicken, known for its distinct reddish color and rich umami.

We recommend trying a bit of everything here because their menu is both diverse and reasonably priced. One dish that often surprises visitors is the “torokawa” chicken skin skewers. While many people are put off by the fattiness or texture of chicken skin, Toribon prepares it to perfection, turning even skeptics into fans.

With English menus and attentive staff, Toribon Honten is easy for international travelers to visit. Just note that because of its popularity, reservations are highly recommended, especially on weekends and evenings.

Stay at Vacation House Yue

Access: About a 25-minute walk from Toribon Honten. Alternatively, you can take a taxi, which will bring the travel time to about 8 minutes.

Vacation House Yue is a cozy private guesthouse located in a quiet residential neighborhood of Tokushima City, around 15-20 minutes from Tokushima Station on foot. Set within a renovated 40-year-old home that preserves the charm of the Showa era (1926 - 1989), the accommodation blends traditional Japanese elements such as tatami rooms and a small garden with modern comforts designed for a relaxing stay.

The amenities here are top-notch: complimentary breakfast ingredients, plenty of cooking equipment and tableware, free electric bicycles, and even children’s toys if you mention you’ll be staying with family. The host is also incredibly friendly and can help you book activities or figure out how to get to your destination. There’s even a parking spot if you plan to explore Tokushima by car, which makes up the second day of this itinerary.

Day 2: Discover the Hidden Beauty of Iya Valley

Iya Valley is a remote mountainous region in western Tokushima Prefecture that once served as a refuge from the outside world, allowing many old customs and ways of life to survive into the present day. 

Due to its terrain and scale, we actually recommend allocating several days to Iya Valley to fully take it in. However, this itinerary is for travelers with limited time in Tokushima, so we’ve created a route that lets you explore some of its top destinations in a single day.

AM: The Statue of a Peeing Boy

Access: About 2 hours by car from the guesthouse.

Perched on a cliff overlooking the Iya River, the Statue of a Peeing Boy is one of Iya Valley’s most unusual landmarks. A symbol of youthful courage, it commemorates a local tale that children once stood on the dangerous precipice to urinate into the ravine below as a test of bravery.

Today, the statue is surrounded by guardrails to prevent any accidents from people trying to do the same thing. However, it still offers a grand view of the beautiful Iya Valley, which received two stars in the Michelin Guide 2009. 

While the statue itself is a quick stop rather than a destination with many activities nearby, it is a worthwhile detour for taking in another side of the valley. Tour buses often stop to see the statue and its backdrop, but if you happen to drop by on a quiet day, take a moment to enjoy the scenery.

AM: Nagoro Scarecrow Village

Access: About a 1 hour drive from the Statue of a Peeing Boy.

Nagoro Scarecrow Village is famous for its hundreds of lifelike scarecrows scattered throughout the village, outnumbering the actual living residents by hundreds. Found sitting at bus stops, working in fields, or chatting along the roadside, these figures were handcrafted by local artist Tsukimi Ayano in response to the village’s declining population. What began as a single scarecrow gradually evolved into an entire “population” of unique characters, each with its own name, personality, and story recorded in a special scarecrow registry.

As you wander through the village, you may be surprised by some of the scarecrows you meet. In recent years, Ayano has been making scarecrows inspired by international trends, so you just might spot a celebrity or even Harry Potter! Other fun activities to do in the village include joining a workshop to make your own scarecrow (held by Ayano, who only speaks Japanese) or taking part in the Scarecrow Festival in October.

While the view might seem otherworldly at first glance, by the end of your exploration, you’ll most likely come to see it as a somewhat bittersweet but heartwarming and inspiring glimpse of the changing realities of life in Japan’s countryside.

PM: Oku-Iya Double Vine Bridges

Access: Less than a 10-minute drive from Nagoro Scarecrow Village.

Along with the more famous Iya-no-Kazurabashi to the west, the Oku-Iya Double Vine Bridges are some of the last remaining vine bridges in the valley, which was once home to thirteen of them. What makes these bridges in particular worth a visit is that they are far less crowded and are treated less like tourist attractions and more as part of the surrounding scenery.

The setting itself is stunning, with greenery everywhere that turn beautiful reds and golds in the autumn, a waterfall, and the clear Iya River below which you can wade through if you want. You may notice the scenery a little less while crossing, however, as the bridges are surprisingly wobbly and the gaps are just big enough where your foot might slip through, making for a truly thrilling experience. Be careful when crossing!

Lunch: Soba Dojo

Access: About a 30-minute drive from the Oku-Iya Double Vine Bridges.

Soba Dojo is a rustic family-run restaurant tucked away in the mountains of Iya Valley. They specialize in Iya soba, crafted using locally grown buckwheat - a staple crop of the region due to the hilly terrain - and the pure waters of the Iya River.

Due to the remoteness of the location, there are few places to dine nearby, making Soba Dojo a beloved destination for both locals and international tourists. In fact, they get so many visitors from abroad that they have English menus!

Soba Dojo also has soba-making workshops by reservation, giving visitors the opportunity to learn this traditional craft firsthand.

PM: Ochiai Village

Access: About a 6-minute drive from Soba Dojo.

Designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings, Ochiai Village is where you can find scenery that reflects how local communities adapted to Iya Valley’s steep mountains. Houses dating from the late 17th to the early 20th centuries stand alongside hand-laid stone walls, winding footpaths, and terraced fields that continue to preserve the traditional Nishi-Awa slope farming system, in which crops are cultivated on steep land without leveling the terrain. Just wandering around will bring endless tiny surprises and delights.

There are two main cultural landmarks to check out while in the village: Sansho Shrine, which is surrounded by huge ancient cedar trees and where festivals and rituals are still held today, and the Nagaoka-ike Historic House. Although no one lives there today, it has been carefully preserved and remains open to visitors to explore inside and get a thorough look at the now-rare architectural style of the local homes.

For a sweeping view of the village, make your way to the lookout on the opposite hillside. The scenery carries a peaceful, nostalgic charm. From here, you can appreciate how the village has endured through the centuries, while gaining a deeper respect for the ingenuity, craftsmanship, and wisdom that have sustained this unique way of life.

Optional: Stay at Tougenkyo Iya no Yamazato

While we’ve left plenty of room in the afternoon to make your way back to Tokushima City, if you want an extra special overnight experience, why not spend the night at Ochiai Village? As part of an initiative to sustainably pass on the beauty and traditions of Japan's disappearing mountain villages, seven of the old homes in the village have been restored as accommodations, allowing visitors to experience the traditional local way of life with modern comforts.

Optional: Oboke Gorge Sightseeing Boat

Access: About a 45-minute drive from Ochiai Village.

On the way back to Tokushima City, if you still have a bit of time and energy, consider taking a sightseeing boat cruise through Oboke Gorge. Gliding along the crystal-clear river, you’ll get an up-close look at the towering cliffs and lush natural surroundings. It’s a relaxing way to wind down after a day of exploring without missing out on one last memorable experience.

Afterwards, you can shop for souvenirs, have dinner at the nearby restaurant, or simply make your way back to the city to wrap up the day.

Uncover More of Tokushima

In just two days, this itinerary lets you experience many of Tokushima’s diverse charms, from the artistry of its traditional puppet theatre to the vine bridges that once played an essential role in the lives of local communities. Whether you return to Tokushima City at the end of your journey or spend another night surrounded by the mountains of the Iya Valley, we hope your visit leaves you with a deeper appreciation for one of Japan’s most distinctive and underrated destinations.