Back for Seconds: Kobe Beef and Nada Sake

What happens at a Kobe beef auction? How do you pair sake perfectly with food? We’ve got answers to all that and more as we head on another culinary adventure of Kobe’s finest with a very special guest.

*This article was sponsored by the KOBE TOURISM BUREAU.

A Closer Look at Kobe's Gastronomic Delights with Greg Lam

In our previous article, we dipped our toes into the harmonious duo of Kobe beef and Nada sake. This time around, we join Greg Lam of Life Where I'm From, renowned for his documentaries on Japan, as he explores firsthand the charm of Kobe beef and Nada's famous sake. Let's discover how to savor the culinary delights of Kobe after gaining a deeper insight into the allure of Kobe beef and Nada sake! First stop, a visit to one of the most innovative Kobe beef farms to explore their fresh take on the highly traditional industry.

Learn more about Kobe beef in the following sections or feel free to watch Greg Lam's video:

“If I Were a Cow, What Would I Want to Eat?”

Mr. Usunaga, the 27-year-old head of Usunaga Ranch, stands out in the aging livestock farming industry with his youthful energy. Eager and determined, he’s taken on the gargantuan challenge of efficiently producing a large number of Tajima cattle, the breed behind wagyu, using advanced reproductive technology. Why? Because "we want people to enjoy the Kobe beef we've raised with care," he says passionately.

Usunaga has been improving feed quality at his ranch for the past four years, using mainly locally sourced feed. He approaches cattle farming with a unique perspective, considering, "If I were a cow, what environment would I want to live in, and what would I want to eat?" This unconventional approach is reflected in the feed he uses, consisting of 40% self-produced rice and other local ingredients like mirin lees, sake lees from Nadagogo, whiskey lees, and okara (soy pulp). 

Additionally, he increases the water content beyond what is found in regular feed, ensuring cattle can hydrate adequately without moving too much.

This gourmet diet enhances their overall health and contributes to the deliciousness of the meat. The Tajima cattle from Usunaga Ranch, raised with such dedication, are of such high quality that the ranch is the preferred supplier for many restaurants in San Francisco that specialize in Kobe beef.

The popularity of Kobe beef, known for its ideal balance of marbling and redness, extends beyond Japan, resonating with overseas consumers who appreciate the highest quality beef. Usunaga himself aptly sums it up, saying, "Kobe beef is the epitome of Japanese beef, a delicacy that can be enjoyed endlessly."

Getting in on the Kobe Beef Auction

At Kobe Central Market where Kobe beef is auctioned off, visitors are not usually allowed, but we got to take a special peek behind the very neat process. And by neat, we mean neat — the first thing you’ll notice here is how strict the hygiene is. Everyone involved gears up as if entering a high-tech lab – hairnets, masks, and even an air shower – all to ensure that the impeccable quality of the Kobe beef is maintained.

The auction area, which is also refrigerated, is where all the action happens. Here, bidders equipped with electronic voting remotes carefully evaluate each graded and stamped carcass from their seats, under the watchful eyes of experienced auctioneers.

It's a swift dance of lights and bids, where every detail of the meat and its quality is scrutinized. The pace is brisk, with auctioneers calling out “Kobe Beef” or “Tajima Gyu” as each new set of carcasses is presented.

Prices at the auction can vary significantly, influenced by both the beef's quality and the reputation of the farmers. For instance, A5 Kobe beef with a BMS (Beef Marbling Score) of 8 might fetch a different price compared to one with a BMS of 12.

Once the auction concludes, the Kobe beef is promptly packed and dispatched to the buyers. Some buyers choose to have the beef shipped as-is for custom butchering, while others rely on the market's butchering services. This phase of the journey from farm to table is as crucial as the rest, ensuring that the beef maintains its integrity and quality until it reaches the kitchens of world-class chefs and restaurants in Japan and around the world.

Teppanyaki: Perfect for Savoring Kobe Beef

When having shabu-shabu or sukiyaki, the meat is traditionally enjoyed with a broth that adds to the flavor. However, when it comes to enjoying Kobe beef, the resounding recommendation from laymen to experts alike is a simple one: just grill with salt and pepper. 

Kobe beef, renowned for its intricate flavor profile, exhibits a delightful texture as the fine marbling melts between the muscle fibers when exposed to heat. The result is a tender and succulent piece of meat. The interplay of the meat's inherent umami, the subtle aroma of fat, and the unique mellowness characteristic of Kobe beef is best appreciated when kept simple.

For cuts with higher fat content, a recommended method is to grill it until the surface crisps up while keeping the center slightly rare. This approach locks in the meat's umami, allowing you to savor both the texture and the aroma that waltzes around as you enjoy each bite.

If you’re planning to make a trip to Japan to enjoy Kobe beef, we suggest a visit to Moriya, a 140-year-old establishment that delivers an impeccable dining experience. Moriya's commitment to quality is evident in their strict selection of superior cattle based on lineage, ensuring only the finest in terms of fat quality, flavor, meat texture, and aging make it to their inventory. It's the perfect restaurant to check off that bucket-list item of indulging in Kobe beef.

Beyond Moriya, there are plenty of other options that you can explore at this handy website: https://kobebeef-org.jp/ (Japanese only)

Exploring Kobe's Sake Heritage

In Kobe City, alongside the famed Kobe beef, another culinary gem awaits in the famous Nadagogo region — Japanese sake. Nadagogo encompasses five sake-brewing areas in Hyogo Prefecture, including Kobe's Imazu, Nishinomiya, Uozaki, Mikage, and Nishigo.

While Japan boasts over 1,400 sake breweries with 10,000 brands, Nada sake holds a unique position, constituting around 25% of the nation's production. What sets it apart is the abundance of tourist-friendly sake breweries in the Nadagogo area, offering diverse experiences like sake tastings, pairings, educational workshops, and hands-on activities.

In the video below, Greg Lam dives into the world of sake, with a focus on Nada sake and the Nadagogo region as a whole. You can also read the following sections for a text summary of his discoveries.

Unraveling the Mystery of Sake Pairing

One of the most common questions among guests at the sake breweries is, “What is the best way to enjoy sake?” and most experts there often respond with a quizzical expression. The reason? There is no one-size-fits-all answer. Sake varieties span beyond just dry or sweet; they encompass a myriad of factors such as brewing methods, alcohol content, and the creative preferences of each sake brewery, each imagining scenarios where their creation would be best enjoyed.

Instead of looking for a specific pairing, most experts suggest a philosophy of “sake elevates any meal.” With its diverse range, sake has the versatility to complement a wide array of cuisines. The key lies not in strict rules but in your personal preferences – how you choose to savor this Japanese beverage is entirely up to you. 

So, when it comes to sake, the question is not "what should you pair it with," but rather, "how will you choose to enjoy it?" – a delightful dilemma indeed!

Discovering Sake Bliss for Beginners at Sanbaiya

Nestled within the Sakuramasamune Memorial Hall “Sakuraen” is the cozy Sanbaiya. Conceived by sake expert and toji (master brewer) Mr. Harada, this establishment embodies his vision of an ideal sake haven. 

While offering a selection of 25 Sakuramasamune sake varieties, guests are limited to enjoying a maximum of three cups per visit. This is because the owner wants it to be a place not for getting intoxicated, but for savoring and relishing delightful moments.

Each cup of sake earns you a stamp, and collecting all 25 stamps earns you a title (rank) and an original sake vessel. The titles ascend in ranks with each completed chapter, reaching the pinnacle after five chapters. 

With a daily limit of three cups, reaching the top is a slow and enjoyable journey, adding a touch of Japanese ingenuity that makes you want to visit again and again. The wall proudly displays the names of those who have achieved each title.

During our visit, Greg, who is not exactly a huge consumer of alcohol, found a favorite in "Sakura RED SWEET 11," a sake crafted with precision by Mr. Harada. Abundant in natural polyphenols and vitamin C, this sake had a refreshing sweet-and-sour profile that might even make you wonder if there were fruits involved. It's an exceptionally drinkable sake, perfect for sake beginners who can relish fruity and sweet flavors. Made from red rice, it has an adorable hue that challenges any preconceived notions about sake being difficult to enjoy.

For sake beginners unsure of what and how to enjoy, this welcoming spot at the Sakuramasamune Memorial Hall serves as the perfect starting point. Tucking into its equally good food and snacks (the oden is exquisite!) with a hot or cold sake — now that’s a truly great sake experience.

Learn, Taste, and Take Home: Savoring the Complete Japanese Sake Experience

During our recent exploration to Nadagogo, we visited four prominent sake breweries: Hakutsuru, Kiku-Masamune, Sakuramasamune, and Sawanotsuru. However, there are even more options to explore, including: Fukuju, Sensuke-Kosen, Daikoku Masamune, Konanzuke, Chiyodagura, Hamafukutsuru, Nihonsakari, Shirataka, Hakushika, Takaramusume, Tokuwaka, and Ozeki, as they open their doors to the public as well. The breweries have varied offerings and opening hours, so be sure to check ahead.

Just like our adventures through these facilities, many tourists hop between multiple breweries. While Nadagogo is divided into five areas, the breweries aren't all located next to each other, so we suggest using taxis to get around, especially after a few drinks.

Each facility offers a unique experience, such as tasting freshly brewed sake or seasonal menus. Some places require reservations for brewery tours or sake-making process insights. 

See How Sake Barrels Are Made at Taru Sake Meister Factory

For an exclusive insight into the art of sake barrel-making, pay a visit to Kiku-Masamune's Taru Sake Meister Factory. By making a reservation through their website up to two days before your planned visit, if you’re lucky, you’ll get a chance to see firsthand a part of the sake barrel production process. For more details, click here.

The Taru Sake Meister Factory is not just a museum, but a workshop where you can observe artisans meticulously crafting sake barrels using selected Yoshino cedar. Watch the delicate adjustments made by these skilled craftspeople to create the barrels that ensure the quality of the sake, which are made without using any nails or adhesives. This workshop provides a glimpse into the unwavering dedication to the techniques, materials, and environment that nurture sake, even through the changing times.

Brewing the Future: Japanese Sake For a New Generation

Alcohol sales in Japan peaked at 9.65 million kiloliters in 1996, followed by a gradual decline. Despite a growing adult population, per capita alcohol consumption has decreased, and with the adult population projected to fall below 100 million by 2030, the steady decline is expected to continue. But while the assumption is that the younger generation’s lack of interest in sake compared to their parents is the main factor, age is actually less of a determining factor — there are changes in lifestyle and taste preferences that also contribute to this trend.

The breweries are fully aware of this, and are adapting by experimenting with approachable and stylish packaging, along with ongoing research and development to cater to evolving tastes. For instance, Sawanotsuru offers "cut-to-drink" sake, creating a new way to enjoy sake cocktails. Similarly innovative sake products are available from other breweries, making sake-based cocktails an intriguing facet of the industry.

Each facility provides an opportunity to purchase both traditional and modern sake, with some shops even offering cosmetics made from sake byproducts for both men and women. Exploring the features of each brewery in Nadagogo is a delightful experience. Whether enjoying the purchased sake in your accommodation, savoring local delicacies, or exploring the gorgeous souvenirs, we hope you enjoy the unique offerings of Nadagogo as much as we did!

Kansai Feature

The information in this article is accurate at the time of publication.

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